Saturday 16 April - Creag Ruadh 712m (Graham) NN 674292 Map 51

"So much for coming back later in spring or summer for Creag Ruadh" said Lynne as we were blasted by winds out of the arctic. The promise of clear tops and sunshine had been too much to resist so once again we were in Glen Tarken on 'the sunny side of Loch Earn'.

Glen Tarken - the path which passes to the left of Creag Dubh (centre) then descends to Glen Beich can be seen on the hillside left. [Click to enlarge all photos]

So far, our rapid pace along and up the track had just about produced enough heat to offset the piercing wind but before beginning the climb through the heather, Paramo Cascada trousers were extracted from the sacks along with an extra top layer. Instant relief.

The ascent was fairly gentle through heather, some burnt recently, some not, and sooner than expected the pleasing sight of Lochan Eas Domhain revealed itself. Shortly afterwards a thin path appeared, aiding our progress to the summit rocks.

Lochan Eas Domhain with Ben More and Sob Binnein

Delightful walking near the summit

Although the top is marked by a small cairn, a slab only a few metres away looked slightly higher but  unsurprsingly, neither SatMap or the iPhone's GPS could differentiate between the two heights. In any case, more pressing than fiddling with gadgets was the need for food. Soft hail was blowing in on the wind; immediately below, out of sight lay Glen Lednock reservoir; further east, Ben Chonzie's dome had only smear of snow. It was a lovely spot.

View to Ben Lawers from the top

The summit area is a sort of maze of rocks and a place to spend a pleasant half hour of exploring on a summer's day. But not this day. No, down it was more or less by the route of ascent.

Snow and soft hail again fell while we paused for refreshments. Heavier and more persistent than previously, it blew in from the north for some time as we made our back along the track. An estate Land Rover, seen earlier in the day descending to the glen, now wobbled its way back up a rough track. We were unsure as to whether the occupant's mission involved grouse management or placing tubs of high energy supplement for the sheep which shared the hills.

On our way out

We were well down in the glen before outer layers of clothing could be stuffed back into sacks and now the atmosphere was that of spring.  A few boats tacked their way up a sunless Loch Earn reminding us of our own brief skirmish with sailing our Gull there in the late '80s - when on the water we really wanted to be on the hills, so there was little point in continuing we felt.

Although both Grahams in the area have now been climbed there are still many reasons for us to return to the heathery upland moors of Glen Tarken but that will be later in the year. For now other Grahams await in areas not visited for decades. I wonder how much they will have changed? And there is the matter of twelve remaining Corbetts which have waited far too long for our attention.

 

Friday 8 April - Creag Each 672m (Graham) NN 652263 Map 51

Countless times we've driven past lovely Loch Earn with never a thought as to what interest the tract of land immediately north of the loch might hold. We were heading for 'greater things' and most often our destination was Glen Coe and the Forestry Commission campsite run by Bill.

From 1996 to 2004, from April until holidays in mid-July, we hardly missed a weekend there with our motorcaravan. This was a perfect base for forays to Mull, Ardgour, the Loch Arkaig hills and north of the Great Glen, as well as for memorable days on the Glen Coe peaks themselves. Despite regular predictions of dire weather, the forecasters were invariably wrong and we enjoyed fine weather on the vast majority of weekends.

Today it was was cold and overcast. Earlier forecasts of fine weather had been, as usual, downgraded regularly during the week but the tops were clear and, rain or shine, we were looking forward to being on unfamiliar ground.

From the small car park opposite the Loch Earn Sailing Club the track zig-zagged pleasantly upwards into Glen Tarken passing the derilict steadings of Wester Glentarken where we stopped to take in the quiet atmosphere. 

Glentarken steadings (click to enlarge all photos)

Loch Earn. St Fillans is barely disernible in the distance

Ben Vorlich, as so often on recent trips, dominated the southern view, its snow cover now much reduced. I have a feeling it will be topped up again before Spring finally arrives here.

Ben Vorlich (obviously)

It didn't take long for our craggy hill to come into sight and at what seemed as good a place as any, we left the ease of the track and wended upwards through the rough grasses following sheep trods hither and thither.

Creag Each

Higher up the hillside, it rained. Full waterproofs on. That done, it stopped. Some blue appeared. Steep heathery slopes - a lot steeper than they looked - then some scree, lead to a prominent cairn which had been visible from the track earlier in the day.

The summit lay across a shallow hollow.

Creag Each summit across the hollow

From the final slopes down to Loch Earn

Northern hills were in cloud and probably rain but if anything conditions here were improving, though it was still cold and un-springlike.

The summit cairn

We pondered going for the next Graham across the glen where some heather burning had started, but decided to leave it for another time to include Clach Mhor Na h-Airigh Leithe or the Glen Tarken Stone. I think the glen in summer or later in spring would be a quite charming place so we'll come back then for Creag Ruadh.

Once back on the track we explored further up the glen until Creag Dubh came into view. The track loops round the head of the glen and can be followed back to St Fillans or to our starting point. Beyond Creag Dubh and into Glen Beich some pathless terrain leads to a track which can be joined for Killin or Ardeonaig on Loch Tay using, I think, part of the Rob Roy Way.

Some good wild camping spots and a fine Scots pine by Glentarken Burn

We returned at a leisurely pace meeting a couple who'd walked from St Fillans by the disused railway line through Glentarken Wood. A popular route in summer it seems.

We'd planned to have a last cup of tea at the steadings but cattle were grazing there now - an ancient scene - so we left them undisturbed and were back at the car by 3pm well content with our day. 

 

Wednesday 30 March - Meall Dearg 690m (Graham) NN886414 and Craig an Loch 663m (Graham Top) NN878408 Map 52

Poor Meall Dearg is blighted by bulldozed tracks and nearby windfarms but also, thankfully, blessed with fine views to the Ben Lawers range and Schiehallion. Most who make for it will be 'doing the Grahams' I imagine.

Lynne took a zoom of An Stac in the Lawers range (click to enlarge)

It's a fine start past the farm and keeper's cottage following the Wade road into Glen Fender near Amulree. We had never been in this Glen before and opted to follow the track above Glenfender Burn rather than divert upwards onto the Beinn Liath ridge, thus postponing for as long as possible the sight of the Griffin wind farm

This is grouse shooting country but from a distance Lynne thought this looked like a menu! You never know these days.

The track continued well beyond that shown on our map and a short diversion from it brought us to the small cairn of Beinn Liath and the inevitable...

Griffin wind farm

Our destination was now visible and it took little time to gain the trig point and a view to Loch Hoil and Schiehallion - and the Callaichar wind farm.

 Loch Hoil and Schiehallion in distance - and Callaichar wind farm

Loch Fender

From Meall Dearg we descended to lonely Loch Fender and crossing the outflow ploughed through thick heather passing numerous shooting butts on our way to Creag an Loch and beyond.

Meall Dearg (centre) with Creag an Loch (left)

Eventually we rendezvoused as planned with yet another bulldozed track and leaving the 'go-backs' to their moorland home, descended by the Kinloch Burn to Wester Kinloch and the line of the Beauly-Denny pylons, striking through Glen Quaich by the shores of Loch Freuchie. It was a peaceful spot, enriched by calling curlews, tumbling peewits and oyster catchers.

Loch Freuchie

We only have one Graham left to do in the area but will return to explore the many fine hills belonging to no list other than our own, the through routes and circuits, the history. And it's all a mere thirty four miles away.

Friday 25 March. Grahams - Meall Reamhar 620m NN922332 and Meall nan Caorach 623m NN928338. Map 52

It was yet another beautiful morning as we passed through the Sma' Glen to the pleasant hamlet of Amulree although half way there we realised that we'd forgotten the cameras. Yes, both of them. A week ago this would have been a minor disaster but I recently bought an iPhone 6s Plus so the day's photographic record was saved and all photos here were taken with it.

In past days, old military roads went north from Amulree to Aberfeldy, south to Crieff;  others went by Strathbraan to Dunkeld, and to Kenmore by Glen Quaich.

We parked opposite the now abandoned hotel - William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy stopped here on Friday 9 September 1803 during their tour in Scotland, as Dorothy recorded in her journal: "We halted at a lonely inn at the foot of a steep barren moor, which we had to cross".

We on the other hand prepared to brave the traffic on the kilometre walk along the A822 to Girron, not realising that we could have parked at the start of the walk.

Click to enlarge all photos

From Girron the track headed over the hills between our two Grahams to Glen Almond but since we had a circuit in mind it was soon left for the hillside and our first objective of the day, Meall Reamhar.

Looking back to Amulree and Craig Hulich after leaving the track

The ridge easily gained, we followed the line of an electric fence which seemed to go all the way to our summit. We hoped sincerely that the cairn was on our side of the fence!

Meall Reamhar and left, our next objective, Meall nan Caorach

We were buffetted along this pleasant heathery ridge by a strong, cold westerly so taking photographs with the iPhone was no easy matter.

Meall Reamhar

A brief halt and our thoughts turned to our next hill across the glen. A hare, still white, darted across the hillside; a small group of other walkers were on the track below. I looked around taking in the view anticpating the rest of the day.

Meall nan Caorach from Meall Reamhar

Then I slipped, turned awkwardly and fell onto a small slab of rock face down, my ribs taking the full impact. Had I cracked a rib or two I wondered. Deep breaths were painful. A stop for some hot drinks and food seemed sensible before continuing. An ultra careful descent to the track followed and then, perhaps against our better judgement, we slowly began the climb to the top of Meall nan Caorach, with only the odd wimpish yelp of pain on the way.

Meall nan Caorach

Our original intention to traverse to Chreag Ghorm, a Graham Top was ditched in favour of regaining the track quickly, as my ribs (or something) were now well and truly hurting.

I'm sure we will return for this Top and maybe walk the track down to the River Almond at a later date.

Looking back to our two hills, Meall Reamhar right

Back at Amulree we had a look round the small church.

It was a peaceful place and we would have spent longer there were it not for my mishap.

Sunday 20 March -Meall Buidhe 719m Graham. NN576275 Map 51

A glorious drive on a glorious day saw us at the car park at the summit of Glen Ogle. It could be argued that we had chosen too modest a hill given the weather and the array of snowy peaks available to us. However, Ben More, Stob Binnein, Ben Lawers etc are rightly popular hills, especially on a day such as this, so for seekers of solitude little Meall Buidhe had much to offer.

The track which leads to a mast goes through a conifer plantation, usually dark, dreary and silent places, but the sun shone directly between the trees and the birds were singing. Some way on, Lynne announced that she'd forgotten her waterproof. "I put it out for you. In the hall, by the chair". "Didn't see it". "Well, I put it out last night". "I never saw it" etc, etc. On many other days this year the absence of said waterproof would have been a problem.

Waterproofs weren't going to be needed today. Ben More and Stob Binnein. Click to enlarge all photos.

Across Glen Ogle lay the Corbett, Craig Mac Ranaich while westwards Sgiath Chuil and Beinn Bhreac brought back memories, years apart. Ben Lui's centre gully was still complete and no doubt as avalanche prone as ever.

Zoom to Ben Lui

Shortly after breaking out of the trees we came across two newly born lambs, fresh placenta on the track. One struggled up, wobbled, then managed to follow mother into the long grass. The first lambs we've seen this year.

From the mast the way ahead was through thick heather over gently undulating terrain and soon the little cairn appeared with Vorlich and Stuc a' Chroin filling the view  across Loch Earn. A larger cairn a short distance south gave views over Glen Ogle and Lochearnhead. A tranquil scene it was.

From the large cairn

The summit cairn from the lage cairn overlooking Glen Ogle.

Below was a lovely spot for a long lunch. No hurry today. We lazed in the sun and talked, as we often do at such places, of exploits of the past and plans for the future.

Despite having done the Munros and almost the Corbetts we are no list tickers, but there is little doubt that seeking out hills because they are on a list has taken us to places that perhaps would not otherwise have been visited. Invariably, the effort has been amply rewarded and today was yet another example.

I seemed to be carrying an inordinately large pack today! Ben Vorlich and Stuc a' Chroin in distance

An easy walk took us over a few bumps to Beinn Leabhain which gave open views of the Lawers hills, Loch Tay and Killin.

On our way to Beinn Leabhain

Looking back to Meall Buidhe

Lawers, losing snow cover fast, and Loch Tay

Down we go

It appears that this is either our 28th or 29th Graham and we hope to explore many more this year. I have the feeling that because they are under 2500ft and unfrequented, the going will be rough - much rougher than most of the Munros. Now there's something to look forward to.

We arrived home and there in the hallway was .... the absence of a waterproof. A quick rumage in my sack and two waterproofs emerged........

Monday 14 March - Beinn Dearg 706m.Graham NN696197. Graham Tops - Sron na Maoile 618m and Stuc na Cabaig (unratified 708m). Map 57

The drive to Comrie and then down Glen Artney was all pleasure on this perfect March morning. What a day to be setting out for the hills.

Getting ready. Click to enlarge all the photos.

A short walk back up the road from the car park to Dalchruin brought us beside the lovely Water of Ruchill and, fortunately, a bridge over it. After the ruin of Dalclathick Lodge the atv track became a quagmire so we took to the massive tussocks to head for our first Top of the day, Sron na Maoile (618m).

Dalchruin

Tussocks and looking towards Stuc na Cabaig (Graham Top)

It was hard going through this lot but as always, things improved. We heard what we thought was an atv in the distance but discovered, moments later, a shallow pool with frogs leaping into it as though on springs croaking their little hearts out.  Loads more joined the chorus from winter bleached grasses. 

Onwards and upwards, on easier terrain now, and the view we had been waiting for.

Stuc a' Chroin and Ben Vorlich

Deep hags separated us from Sron na Maoile but we found a way through remarkably easily. We were soon at the small cairn, pushing on quickly to cross the intervening summit of Sron nam Broighleag and so to the second Graham Top, Stuc na Cabaig. Apparently this Top may be the Graham, an unratified survey showing it to be 708m, some 2m higher than Beinn Dearg. We were therefore careful to stand on its summit!

It was difficult not to keep looking back

The ridge ahead to Beinn Dearg looked interesting, so off we set full of the joys of spring.

Beinn Dearg in the distance

In Knoydart you'd be thinking that some hard work was ahead, but here the ups and downs were gentle and the three subsiduary summits came and went with relative ease. The whole way was a delight, descending and ascending snow patches just for the fun of it.

On our way to Beinn Dearg

Beinn Dearg

It's possible from here to include another Graham, Mor Bheinn, but this involves climbing a deer fence which we didn't fancy at all, so we turned and dropped down into Coire Innein to find a spot for lunch.

Looking back to Stuc na Cabaig, centre

 We were a hungry pair like the deer below us. The name Glen Artney may be from Gleann-ard an-fheard meaning the high glen of the deer.


We came down on a golden afternoon to the sound of a curlew and glimpes of the Water of Ruchill. Crossing the Allt Coire Choire at the Ath na Meine ford brought us back to Dalclathick for a cup of tea and a Stoats Oat bar.

Uninhabited Dalclathick Lodge

Sheets of snowdrops lay below a deserted steading. We were reluctant to leave. But Mor Mheinn has still to be explored and climbed so it won't be long before we are back in this lovely glen.