Stuc a' Chroin and Ben Vorich

Stuc a' Chroin and Ben Vorich

Thursday, 29 August 2019

Thursday 29 August, Braemar - gloomy

The photo reflects my mood after Johnson prorogued parliament yesterday, just after our arrival here. Then Ruth Davidson confirmed today that she was resigning as Leader of the Scottish Conservatives. At least Nicola Sturgeon is happy.

Wednesday, 7 August 2019

Wednesday 7 August - NASA-JPL I'm off to Mars in 2020

I launch in July 2020 on an Atlas V-541 rocket from Cape Canaveral Airforce Station and arrive at Jezero Crater, Mars, on 18 February 2021, a journey of 313,586,649 miles. I have my Boarding Pass already.

Atlas V launch (Courtesy Spacenet 101)

Jezero Crater. Courtesy NASA
The Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL), in Pasadena, California is managed for NASA by the prestigious California Institute of Technology (Caltech) and is the centre for robotic exploration of the solar system. It also manages NASA's Deep Space Network.

Previous JPL missions include Voyagers 1 and 2, Cassini-Huygens, Kepler, Juno and last November, InSight successfully landed on Mars. I watched on NASA TV as Mission Control monitored the "7 minutes of terror" - the Entry, Descent and Landing (EDL) phase - which worked perfectly. Unfortunately, I missed getting onto the InSight flight.

"What on earth is he talking about", I hear you say.

Well, I subscribe by email to a number of NASA newsletters including JPL's 'Week in Review' and the first item on the 3 August issue concerned the Mars Entry, Descent and Landing Installation 2 (MEDLI2) on the Mars 2020 Aeroshell. The Aeroshell consists of a Thermal Protection System  (heat shield) and a back shell which will protect the Mars 2020 rover as it journeys to Mars and during the entry and descent through the Mars atmosphere at about 12,500 mph, slowing to 2mph in just 6 minutes.

"Flight data will allow the uncertainties in the models [used to predict the performance of an entry vehicle] to be further reduced leading to a more accurate prediction of the loads and performance" (Henry Wright, MEDLI2 project manager).

Currently large margins (100 - 200%) need to be allowed in predictions to ensure safe entry and descent. This data is of course vital for future human missions to Mars.

So what's all this about me going to Mars?

The Microdevices Laboratory at JPL will be using an electron beam to stencil submitted names onto a silicon chip with lines of text smaller than a human hair (75nm). My name is one of them!  The chips will be affixed to the Mars 2020 Rover.

My Boarding Pass, which includes my name of course.Courtesy NASA

JPL - Fuelling the 2020 Rover's power system (Radioisotope Thermoelectric Generator.) Courtesy NASA JPL

 JPL - The back shell which will protect the Rover during the descent to Jezero Crater. Courtesy NASA JPL
Coutesy NASA, JPL

The Rover's robotic arm will take core samples of the surface and analyse them sending data back to Earth but there's much more to this mission than that. More later perhaps, but in the meantime I'm looking forward to following the preparations for the mission my the long voyage to the surface of Mars. Even if it's just in name.

For now I continue to build my second Saturn V model though the Airfix version is not as enjoyable to build as the Revell was.

Monday, 22 July 2019

Sunday 7 July - Meall Corranaich and Meall a' Choire Lèith

I lost the first attempt at this post so here goes again.

Drive over the hill road by Lochan na Làirige in summer, especially at weekends, and you'll find tents, campervans and bus-like motor homes all over the place. As a motorcaravanner myself I understand the attraction of parking up in such beautiful surroundings (I don't do it though) but it makes it well nigh impossible, sometimes, to get parked for a day on the hill.

With my last point in mind we were early today, it being a Sunday, but not quite early enough to be first at the small roadside cutting just beyond the north end of the Lochan. A young couple (who'd camped the night before) were getting boots on and were soon off up the path with a 'see you later, you'll soon catch us up'. Meall nan Tarmachan, done twice in winter from the dam (1977 and 1993), was a fine prospect, its craggy slopes falling to Lochan nan Làirige. I can't remember why we did it from the dam rather than the 'normal' route but both ascents provided proper mountaineering days as only winter conditions can. I wouldn't mind doing it again next winter - if we get a proper one.

The path across the moor is indistinct in places and we caught up with the couple as they searched for it whereas we just took the best line, faint path or not. By contrast, the path up the SW ridge of Meall Corranaich to the summit is excellent though for a moment I contemplated leaving it and going off-road up the west face's grassy slopes. However, the ridge would give good views across to Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers so I decided against leaving it.

The moorland approach to Meall Corranaich

The excellent path on the ridge with Loch Tay below

For once the weather forecasters had got it right and we were met by the predicted cold north wind as we emerged onto the level ground before the summit cairn. It didn't feel like a July day at all.

Beinn Ghlas
Meall a' Choire Lèith, 3km distant and looking more than that today, was easily reached. We made a diversion to the stony top above Coire Gorm (why I don't really know!) before regaining the north ridge and descending to a bealach at 780m. The final ascent from here skirted the edge of the crags of Coire Liath before reaching the flat summit area and the cairn where we were dismayed to find two rotting banana skins. Pathetic. Absolutely pathetic. No lovers of hills are you who left these here.

Lynne on Meall a' Choire Lèith

We didn't tarry long at the top and could have descended direct to Coire Gorm to the path above the Allt Gleann Dà Eig (not marked on our map) but instead opted for a return to the bealach from where we could take our outward route back, as we did in 1983, or drop down into Coire Gorm.  Down into the corrie it was but it turned out not to be a particularly good choice. If there was a hidden wet hole in the vicinity I managed to find it, the one just before we joined the path being a particularly fine example. Better to just go back over the hills and get the views to Ben Lawers and the rest.

Looking back to Meall a' Choire Lèith

Looking towards Glen Lyon from the Allt Gleann Dà Eig - which meets the River Lyon near Balmenoch

At the car the sun shone and we finished off the tea. The couple arrived and we talked for a while. The girl was French and doing a PhD at St Andrews - her field work was being done in Glen Lyon but I failed to ask her if she was a geographer, geologist, geophysicist or whatever. We agreed that St. Andrews is a great place to be. Glen Lyon isn't a bad 'lab' either, we thought.

And a final point: Meall Corranaich is, in my view, better approached via Coire Odhar starting from the NTS carpark. If you can find a space.

Wednesday, 3 July 2019

Monday 1 July - A wander from Kenmore to Remony, Acharn and back.

A late start but there was still plenty of parking space in Kenmore at the entrance to Taymouth Castle or, as a German motorcyclist parked beside us said, 'Taymooth Chateau'!

At Remony we left the south Loch Tay road for the path to Balmacnaughton and gave a wave to a chap relaxing by his summer house where woodcarvings of rabbits adorned the decking. Beyond the stone circle was a stand of beautiful Scots pines, the sound of the wind blowing through them reminding me of the Cairngorms. 'If I close my eyes we could be at.." But I didn't get to finish the sentence. "Derry Lodge", said Lynne. Exactly so. This spot was a haven in what was now fairly bleak country, though I suspect in brighter weather, which seemed to be everywhere but here, it would be pleasant enough. Not often I feel like this about hill country.

Our plan had been to follow the track until it crossed the Acharn Burn and then decide what to do at the small wooden hut, visible from the track. However, neither of us was particularly enjoying the walking so after a bit of indecision we abandoned the route and retraced our steps to find a spot in the sun for tea and biscuits, just beyond the bridge over the Remony Burn.

Descending by the way we'd come would have meant too short a day so back over the bridge we went to take the lovely route to the Acharn Falls and so to the road. Signs proclaim speed limits (40mph mostly, in places 20mph) and the road is 'walker and cycle friendly' but, as usual, only the odd driver pays much attention to it.

We stopped on the beach at the head of the loch , finished our tea and watched the boats bobbing about on the choppy water, trying to remember the name of the nearby island. I've brought 'Swallows and Amazons' with me to re-read and the scene put me in just the right mood for it.

Note: The island has several alternative names: Spry Island, Spries Island, Spray Island and Spar Island.

Sent from my iPhone

Monday, 1 July 2019

Sunday 30 June - By way of a record

With terrific thunder and lightning storms in the area yesterday (29th) we weren't about to venture onto a hill, even though that day marked another anniversary - twenty eight years since we completed the Munros. We had a hill earmarked but it will keep until later this week.

There has been a dramatic change in the weather overnight with the temperature today around 14°C some 10°C lower than on our Ben Lawers day. Winds gusting to 42mph this afternoon, and obviously much higher speeds at altitude. A good day to read and plan what to do next and for brief visit to Kenmore.

Photo: Fortingall Yew

Sunday, 30 June 2019

Friday 28 June - A short day out on Meall Buidhe 932m. A 45th Wedding Anniversary Munro

Final broad ridge to Meall Buidhe

Stuchd an Lochain

Meall Buidhe to the north of Loch an Daimh is often climbed along with Stuchd an Lochain but this involves returning to the dam after doing whichever one is done first. We did them separately rather than rush.

It's probably not a hill to do after very wet weather if you plan to go via the peat bog that is Coire nan Miseach, but we had it dry fortunately and I doubt that it was in such a state back in 1983. However, the name of the 878m hill, Meall a' Phuill gives the game away, the rough translation being 'The Round Hill of the Peat Bank/hag'.

Today, it took us only an hour and a half to the top where the wind was unexpectedly quite ferocious and almost blew us off our feet. Luckily it wasn't too cold, but we did need to dig out windproof jackets from the sacks before taking some photographs. The jackets would have been gone forever had we lost hold of them.

The hill is often unfavourably compared to Stuchd an Lochain which is undoubtedly the finer hill, but the walk along the level ridge above Glas Choire to the large summit cairn on Meall Buidhe is over far too soon.

Photos -  ridge to summit
               struggling with camera case in the wind.
               Orchid but not sure of name despite Lynne
               studying our wild flower book

Saturday, 29 June 2019

Thursday 27 June - Beinn Ghlas 1103m and Ben Lawers 1214m

Ben Lawers from Beinn Ghlas
Lochan nan Cat below An Stuc from Ben Lawers
Beinn Ghlas from slopes of Ben Lawers
Ben Lawers Trig

We were at the carpark early given the popularity of these hills and previous parking difficulties, and were well up Beinn Ghlas before we spotted two figures far below. The light breeze was a blessing after the delightful but hot, windless approach through the birch trees beside the Burn of Edramucky. Beinn Ghlas at 1103m is a substantial Munro, its small cairn perched at the edge of its north face which falls steeply into Coire Odhar. Often regarded as a mere point on the way to its more lofty neighbour Ben Lawers and its 4000ft magic contour, Beinn Ghlas is a very fine hill in its own right.

A lengthy break by the cairn to take in the view allowed the two figures to catch up and we enjoyed a pleasant fifteen minutes or so in their company. They were from Crieff, a mere forty minute drive away, and were in training for their planned fourteen day walking trip to the Pyrenees in September.

The Lawers range was very much part of my early hill days, courtesy of the newly formed school climbing and walking club - a winter ascent of Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers around 1966 or '67 which today, sadly, would probably never get off the ground once the 'risk assessment' had been completed. I don't have a date for when Lynne and I climbed them so that suggests 1976 or 1977, since for some reason we only started dating ascents from 1978. Much later on I was persuaded to 'lead' a party from work up Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers which was a real pain in the neck, particularly since all but one of them had never been on a hill. This nascent company walking club didn't develop any further, thankfully.

With a 'see you on the summit' we left our fellow walkers from Crieff and departed down to the bealach. So far my concerns about the crowds likely to be encountered were unfounded and there appeared to be only one or two people at the trig point on Ben Lawers. Indeed by the time we'd made the fairly steep and enjoyable ascent those figures had gone.

We had lunch just below the summit, overlooking beautiful Lochan nan Cat lying below An Stuc's south-east face and enclosed by three Munros.

Back at the bealach we took the path which skirts the north face of Beinn Ghlas and descends to the lovely and very hot Coire Odhar, which at one time was popular with skiers.

The National Trust for Scotland has done an excellent job on this and the main path up these hills. Often constructed paths are badly done and don't sit well in the landscape, but this is not the case here. Even the relocation of the carpark has been done with care, being reasonably well hidden from the summits and from the road. Well done NTS. No-one could grudge the £2 parking fee.

Another memorable day, both of us savouring our return to the fine hills in this area. Life well spent.

Thursday, 27 June 2019

Wednesday 26 June - Stuchd an Lochain 960m

Loch an Daimh
Lochan nan Cat and Stuchd an Lochain
Loch an Daimh and Gleann Daimh
This Munro, first climbed in August 1982, was not our intended hill for the day but parking space, or rather the lack of it, forced a change of plan. We weren't late in setting out but others were earlier so Meall Corranaich and Meall a' Choire Léith will have to wait for a second visit. Fortunately, I'd anticipated this sorry state of affairs so had The Stuchd in mind or its neighbour across Loch an Daimh, Meall Buidhe.

So, onwards we drove down to Bridge of Balgie and along Glen Lyon to the Giorra Dam where, surprisingly on such a fabulous June day, only one car was parked.

When, in the early 1960s, I think, the Giorra Dam was built and Glen Daimh flooded, Loch Giorra, Loch Daimh, the land in between the two lochs and Lochs Farm were covered and Loch an Daimh, part of the Breadalbane Hydroelectric Scheme, was formed. I can't say that I find hydro schemes such as this a blot on the landscape but I suppose that's because they've been a feature of the hills since I started climbing and walking. The recent Run-of-the-River schemes seem to me to scar the hills in a much more brutal way with their horrendous access roads and so on.

Anyway, to the hill. It seems that the first recorded ascent was made in 1590 by Colin Campbell who built the first tower of Meggernie Castle. Apparently, 'On the brow of the hill, Stuic-an-Lochain - a huge rock beetling over a deep circular mountain tarn - they encountered a flock of goats'. It is one of the first accounts of an ascent of any Scottish mountain (D. Bennet).

A short distance past the dam we took the path which, after traversing the hillside for a time, climbed quite steeply until a line of old fence posts lead west along the ridge to the fine 887m summit of Creag an Fheadain, a Corbett Top, though we didn't know that at the time. The weather forecast of 'sunny intervals' was well wide of the mark - not a cloud in the sky - and we were very glad of the breeze at the cairn.

To the west was Stuchd an Lochain and, some 215 m below its steep, broken headwall in the floor of its northern corrie, the as yet unseen, Lochan nan Cat.

Across a dip to the south-west of the 887m point was the Munro Top of Sron Chona Choirein but having done it first time round we bypassed and savoured the high airy stroll towards the final rise to the top. We stopped often to look down on and photograph the blackness of Lochan nan Cat. A gem.

The small summit cairn sits on the edge of the previously mentioned headwall and is an excellent viewpoint: down the whole length of Glen Lyon, Ben Nevis, the Mamores and Grey Corries, the Buachaille, the Achaladair group.

A grassy spot just below the cairn was a perfect place for lunch in the light breeze and we lazed about there for a while, reluctant to leave. Eventually we tore ourselves away, not having seen a single goat, never mind a 'flock'.

The final descent was rough on the badly eroded path and it seemed to take ages before the small orange boat moored by the loch side got close enough to answer the question 'a RIB or simply and inflatable?' Neither. It was a GRP tender-type (nautical authorities, feel free to correct the terminology).

It was stiffingly hot back at the car.

Tuesday, 25 June 2019


With three good days forecasted we've returned to the Killin area to re-visit some Munros and enjoy the peace and quiet of some other hills and places.

We're not exactly sure which Munros to choose - we are spoilt from choice - but if you watch this space you might find out.

Friday, 31 May 2019

Friday 31 May - Home

A very wet cloudy morning and an indifferent weather outlook sealed the decision to come home, regroup and prepare for another trip.

During our (almost) three week holiday I have, for the first time in recent years, posted on most days. I rather enjoyed it, although no matter how often I read the draft the outcome was never quite right. Never mind, the posts provide a good enough record of the days for my purposes. Comments from Sir Hugh, AlanR, Dave and Gayle were most welcome.

Posting to Blogger on my iPhone using a BT email address was very easy on 4G, including uploading up to four photographs. Occasionally after publishing I was able to upload an additional photograph via Blogger itself, though the photo appeared smaller than when added to an email. Ironically, last September using Gmail I found posting with photographs a nightmare.

I'm about to sign up for a Flickr account and I'll provide a link when this is done.

Photo: Croft Moraig, Double Stone Circle

Wednesday, 29 May 2019

Tuesday 28 May - Meall Mor 819m L51

Meall Mor
We progressed quickly up the track from the parking place then onto easy slopes of rough grass, blaeberry bushes and bog cotton. Luckily, there was no bog to go with the cotton today. We arrived at the obvious dip between Tullich Hill and the long escarpment of Creag Gharbh with relative ease. As readers will know we climbed Tullich Hill last Friday intending to continue on today's route, but my left Achilles pain foiled that plan. No such problem this time.

An ATV track led out of the dip and we then alternated between using the sheep trods by the edge and the broader grassy expanses. The views ahead were good, but the scene across Loch Tay and to Ben More etc were incomparably better. We did most of these hills in winter, a long, long time ago, when doing the Munros, and haven't been on some of them in summer. So, Lynne suggested revisiting if we're back here in the next few weeks. They would feel like new hills I expect. Cruach Ardrain, Beinn Tullaichean, An Caisteal, Beinn a' Chroin, Beinn Chabhair to name a few. What a great idea.

The fine 819m top of Meall Mor was a tad too windy a place to halt for a much needed bite to eat so we said our goodbyes and retraced our steps, more or less. The Corbett Top, Meall nan Oighread was tantalisingly close, but we passed by. A reason to come back.

A kilometre or so from the car a ewe and her lamb got separated as we approached, the lamb squeezing under a gate, and we spent some time playing collie and shepherd trying to get it to go back through the gate, which I held open. All to no avail. I hope they were reunited.

Monday, 27 May 2019

Sunday 26 May - an encounter

Another very wet day so coffee and cake at The Paper Boat sounded like a good option. But first, we walked to the Crannog Centre in the hope that they had a book or two on standing stones and related matters. Yes, but not any that interested us.

As we returned to Kenmore along the stony beach, a swimmer, whom we'd noticed well out in the loch earlier in the morning, was emerging from the water. We engaged her in conversation making the obvious comments about it being cold etc (like the TV and radio reporters I criticise for asking the most stupid questions) and eventually she modestly told us that she was the first person to to swim 27 miles across the North Minch from the Western Isles to the Scottish mainland, taking under 19 hours. She only wore a swimsuit, hat and goggles in accordance with the rules of the British Long Distance Swimming Association and was stung many times by Lion Mane's jellyfish. Her many other achievements are online but she didn't mention them - like swimming the Pentland Firth when she was nineteen for example.

Modest and delightful. Unusual these days where celebrity rules i.e. "those known for being well-known".

The Paper Boat did not have any of their warmed banana loaf served with a pat of butter, but their coffee and walnut cake was not a poor substitute. Excellent.

Sunday, 26 May 2019

Saturday 25 May - a visit to two stones

On this, possibly the wettest day of the holiday so far, Lynne suggested another visit to the stone circle by taking the track from Remony, just before Acharn.

At Balmacnaughton swifts were tearing through the air feasting no doubt on the abundant insects around the house and trees beyond. Always a wonderful spectacle.

A group of walkers approached from the other direction, the first of them greeting me with a 'Bonjour'. I replied likewise, hoping that he didn't continue the conversation in French. Probably not much danger given my pronunciation.

From the bridge over the Remony Burn, the Allt Mhucaidh, the track goes uphill to the stone circle which sits on a small grassy mound at 378m, its position giving magnificent views of Loch Tay, Ben Lawers and Schiehallion. Of the original nine, there are six stones remaining of which four are still standing and two lying down, with the remaining three thought to lie among the remains of a dyke built straight through the circle perhaps a hundred years ago. The rain stopped for us thankfully.

There's a circuit to be made from this point on good tracks, and 697m Creag an Sgliata can easily be included. We will no doubt get round to that sometime, but today we were off in search of the Cup and Ring Marked Stone. We found it roughly half a kilometre east of Balmacnaughton
and took lots of photographs. Some clearer than others it must be said. 

"This cup and ring marked stone is recorded as Canmore ID 25010, an extract of which reads: " 'On the top of an outcropping rock are nineteen cups, two cups each with a single ring and two each with double rings. The cups vary from 40-75 cms in diameter x 6-12 cms deep while the rings are very faint." The Canmore record also contains a drawing of the motifs' Courtesy

Another enjoyable and interesting day finishing with a walk back in heavy rain.

Crannog on Loch Tay
Standing Stones near Acharn

Sent from my iPhone 

Friday, 24 May 2019

Thursday 23 May - Tullich Hill. L51

From Shee of Ardtalnaig (May 2017) the steep broken slopes of Creag Gharbh of Meall Mor looked worth exploring and a walk from Tullich Hill to Meall Mor itself diverting to take in the Corbett Top, Meall nan Oighread, looked no less appealing. Today, the plan was to go to Meall Mor via Tullich but I made a bad decision: I decided to try my boots again.

It didn't take very long for me to realise that I'd taken leave of my senses. Worse still, I could easily have turned back and changed into trail shoes when I felt a twinge in the tendon only five minutes into the walk, but decided against. Persevere I thought, and pushed on through the tussocks to reach easier ground. However, on the top of cold, very windy Tullich Hill, I decided enough was enough, and reluctantly we called it a day and headed back, a stop for tea easing the pain. We will return, of course, but as the weather improved with every downward step I felt pretty fed up at having ruined the day for Lynne, though she would hear none of it.

At the car I changed immediately into my Merrell trail shoes and sighed with relief. I've rested the tendon today (a day to be on the hill for sure) and while in Killin bought another pair of the same shoes - just in case Merrell, like so many manufacturers these days, 'improve' a perfectly good design. The owner threw in a pair of socks worth £14 which I appreciated. The weather appears to be on the change so we'll have to have a think about what to do next.

Photos: (not many were taken on this walk).

Summit of Tullich Hill with route to Meall Mor right of Lynne.
One of five antlers we found.
The Tarmachans from Killin (today)

Wednesday 22 May - Kenmore to Kenmore

More a record of the day than a post of any interest to others, this was nevertheless an enjoyable short excursion.

There wasn't a great deal of traffic on the road from Kenmore to Acharn and, as always, it was an enjoyable stroll. Stopping occasionally to let various vehicles pass, Lynne spotted an early purple orchid hiding among the grasses on the roadside verge. (List of wild flowers seen this holiday to follow, courtesy of L). Unusually, there were no cars parked at the start of the walk to the Falls of Acharn and no-one at the Hermit's Cave either. Last time we were here it was busy so we passed quickly on, but today we had a look at said cave, built by the 3rd Earl of Breadalbane in the 1760s. Wordsworth and Burns visited apparently, but such things were fashionable then. I could never be a caver so the entrance was as far as I was prepared to go.

Beyond the Falls the grassy track traversed the hillside, by the so-called Queen's Drive, the views never failing to please no matter how often seen. A diversion can be made to visit a stone circle, which we had done previously and we may do so again when the forecast rain arrives. Two walkers passed going in the opposite direction wearing boots fit for Ben Nevis in winter, the only other walkers seen all day. After passing Balmacnaughton (Cup and Ring Marked Stone nearby) the RRW continued until it reached the hill road from Kenmore to Amulree. Tea and hot cross buns then down the steep road to Kenmore.

I was wearing my new Merrell trail shoes, still letting my tendinitis settle which it seems to be doing. I'd say my current pair of Keen Targhee II Mids are destined for the bin despite having at least another year's wear in them (confirmed - see next post). I bought the new version, the Targhee III, before leaving home but didn't bring them with me. They were meant to lie in a cupboard until needed but they'll have to be used later this year probably, or tested next month. The cuff is softer and lower than on the Targhee II so I hope they will be fine. If not, that's more money wasted.

Kenmore and Loch Tay
The track from Balmacnaughton
Loch Tay from near Balmacnaughton

Thursday, 23 May 2019

Tuesday 21 May - Dunan

At Ardtalnaig, a young lad (delivering cattle) demonstrated great skill reversing a huge tractor attached to a massive container within inches of our car and gave us a cheery wave and smile when we signalled we could move it for him. No need, he knew what he was doing. We've always had pleasant encounters in this area and this continued throughout the day as various people went about their work on the estate.

It's a steady climb up the road to Claggan with good views back over Loch Tay and the hills beyond. On reaching Claggan we were sad to see it apparently abandoned as a working farm and the house being renovated. Hopefully, it is just being renovated. Alistair, who owns the site we're staying on, will know I expect.

Beyond Claggan we passed the ruin of Tullichglass as the track headed south beneath the slopes of The Shee of Ardtalnaig and Creagan a' Beinne. Oyster catchers flew close to us, as if to warn us off; a stone chat chatted and flitted from one clump of heather to another. The glen was obviously well populated at one time with the remains of several clachans in evidence.

Ahead we could see the bulk of Ben Chonzie but I doubt it's approached and climbed from this direction being a much easier proposition from Invergeldie in Glen Lednock or from Loch Turret Reservoir.

Though we don't use them, much preferring to camp, there is something special, I think, about that first sighting of a bothy in the hills. At Dunan, we both felt near to home because, beyond the bothy, the track, now beside the River Almond, makes its way to familiar Amulree or Newton Bridge. Cross the bridge over the Almond a short distance from the bothy and another track goes over the hills to Glen Lednock and on to Comrie.

As we sat replacing calories we heard an estate ATV approaching and pretty quickly it sped by, rifles on the front. That's the second time we've seen estate workers with guns this holiday.

Dunan, a former cottage, is situated in a lovely spot at the head of Glen Almond and is now a locked bothy not available for accommodation. We wandered round it in the hope of getting a glimpse inside, but to no avail. It's strictly for use during the grouse shooting season.

It wasn't exactly warm at our lunch spot and we were glad of our ME jackets to fend off the cold wind as we made our return journey, but, right on time as we stopped for afternoon tea and biscuits, the sun appeared and we took full advantage of it for the next half hour.

Back at Claggan, the cattle delivered earlier in the day, complete with bull, watched us pass. With calves all around, the bull never took his eyes off us. Nothing to worry about though. Just don't bother his offspring.

The route we walked today is part of the RRW if you choose the variant via Amulree. In fact using the RRW routes and other tracks in the area a pleasant backpacking trip could be enjoyed.