Winter Words

From the comfort of Pitlochry Festival Theatre I'm looking out over a fast-flowing river Tummel to Ben Vrackie's sunlit snow fields.

While Lynne reads her 'Tale o Peter Kinnen' and signs books, I have had an interesting conversation with author and battle re-enactor Rob Low who is here to talk about 'Bannockburn, Bruce and the Kingdom Series'.

Some BP friends are up from Hertfordshire for Lynne's 'Literary Lunch' and other Winter Words offerings and while they enjoy that, I'll be listening to a free event - 'War Poets' readings (Sassoon, Kipling and Owen). About to begin.

There is a lovely buzz here and we really must attend more events at this Festival next year.





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Tolmount

 

We decided to approach the hill by the Tolmount*, which crosses from Auchallater to Glen Clova, rather than by one of the more popular routes. The track to Loch Callater Lodge was deserted - a surprise for such a sunny Saturday. Along the loch side, across the beautiful meadows below the crags of Creag an Fhir-shaighde and up to the wild, featureless plateau we went. Sheer joy every step. The plateau is not a place to be caught in a winter blizzard though. (Read "The Loss of Five Men on Jock's Road' in I D S Thomson's book 'The Black Cloud'.)

As ever this holiday, the wind was a constant feature: tugging, pushing, swirling, gusting. The landscape seemed to have been scoured clean. At the cairn, perched above Glen Callater, we met a chap who was wondering where Tolmount was. He had 'walked off' his map (who hasn't) and his GPS was showing a position which wasn't anywhere near where he should be if he was on Tolmount. I assured him that he was definitely on his chosen hill and switched on SatMap to confirm it to him.
He was off for Tom Buidhe, we to find some nook or crannie that would offer a little haven of calm for a snack.

It was warm back at the flats by the Allt an Loch, and layers were removed, but a stop for afternoon tea was delayed until arrival at a small gravely beach near the head of the loch. It was hard to move on. We agreed that next time we were hereabouts we should visit Loch Kander in Coire Ceanndobhair and gain the Carn an Tuirc - Cairn of Claise plateau from there. So much to do.

*The 1:50 000 OS Map shows 'Jock's Road' beginning in Glen Callater when, as far as I'm aware, the name only applies to the relatively short section from the shelter to Glen Doll.

I'm writing this hurriedly during a stop on our way home. It has been an excellent trip. This area has become a favourite at this time of year - pity about all the shooting though.

Sir Hugh: Lovely story. It's good to burn the youngsters off! I've always found the people of this area friendly and helpful. If I were to move out of Perthshire, I think Deeside would be my choice.




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Mr Sloman and the TGO Awards 2012

Delighted to see that Alan Sloman has been nominated for his campaign against Scottish windfarms. Will vote when we return Alan.

Today we have had a tootle up to Aboyne and Banchory (above) but tomorrow we'll be back on the hills. Sounds we'll have some pleasant weather too.

AlanS - everywhere we've been on this trip something's been roaring! The Glas Allt was relatively quiet though and the bothy was, unsurprisingly, locked given the time of year.
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After a blustery walk along Loch Muick we reached Glas-allt Shiel, built in 1869 by Queen Victoria. It is a lovely spot, the pines providing shelter for the Lodge - and us today. Thankfully no signs point the way to Lochnagar; no invitations to 'marvel here' at the falls or anything else; no large information boards. For such a popular area it is remarkably free of such clutter.

We followed the zig-zags by the Glas Allt passing the waterfall and so to the start of the path which heads across Monelpie Moss. From its high point the way to Little Pap climbs slopes of deep heather. The wind, never remotely as ferocious as on our aborted Lochnagar day, was still strong enough to make us extra careful on the summit boulder field. After a quick photograph of Lynne at the cairn (holding on her mountain cap!) more boulder-hopping brought us down to the col below Cuidhe Crom. It was cold and the wind tore at us with enough strength to make for a brief exhilarating struggle south to the path. But it lacked any real hostility. Rain swept across the hill and we wondered if there would be flurries of snow on the higher summits.

Winter around the corner. An exciting prospect.

"It will be no hardship to return for Little Pap", I wrote in the previous post. Well it wasn't. How could a day in such a place be a hardship?









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Saturday 8 September - Return to Lochnagar

 

Half the population of Aberdeenshire were on the hill today, or at least in the immediate environs. Or so it seemed. But it was after all a Saturday, and a beautiful one at that. Fortunately we were ahead of most of them by a good distance, with only the wind for company, as we followed the rim of the great NE corrie most of the way to the trig point perched on the granite boulders of Cac Carn Beag. An Aberdeen lad offered us a dram from his hip flask (declined!) before he went off to find a quiet spot to read his book.

To the west of Lochnagar lies The Stuic, its broken, north-facing rocks falling to Loch nan Eun. A perfect setting in Coire Loch nan Eun, corrie of the loch of the birds.

From top of the Red Spout, which in summer can be descended to the loch, we diverted to Cuidhe Crom over the pathless plateau with its golden autumnal grasses and pancake granite rocks. Here our plans, such as they were, changed, and instead of a descent via Little Pap to Glas-allt Shiel, we voted to stay high. It will be no hardship to return for Little Pap and to Meall Coire na Saobhaidhe, no hardship at all. And there is so much more to explore on this, one of the finest hills in Scotland.

The 200m cliffs of Creagan Lochnagar are steeped in climbing history. J H B Bell, Patey, Brooker, Quinn and Lang among others, pioneered routes. In 1958, Edinburgh climber Jimmy Marshall snatched the first winter ascent of Parallel Gully B causing something of a stir among the local Aberdeen climbers.

It's thirty six years since we last stood on the summit so to celebrate we had a tour of Royal Lochnagar Distillery, and bought a bottle of their 12 year old Royal Lochnagar malt.

AlanR - thanks for your comment on the previous post Alan. Surprising that we met no other walkers on such easily accessible hills. I'm looking forward to seeing your photographs from the Gairloch trip.

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Friday 7 September - Monega Hill

The Monega Pass, from Glen Clunie to Glen Isla is the highest of the rights of way across the Mounth. Before beginning its final descent to Tulchan Lodge the track passes west of the 908m summit of Monega Hill, our objective for the day, overlooking Caenlochan.

We, however, were not approaching from Glen Clunie but from Glas Maol so we parked up in the ski area just a few yards from the Perth and Kinross border. It's easy to forget just what a big county P&K is and how varied its scenery. Lucky us. Anyway, we made quick progress through the paraphernalia of the ski grounds and across the arctic-alpine grassland of the Glas Maol to the trig point and shelter. The sheer spaciousness of these Mounth hills never fails to lift the spirits.

"A feature of all these fertile hills is that vegetation covers far more of the ground than at the same altitude in the Cairngorms, with very little bare gravel or screes. Ptarmigan, red grouse, dunlin, skylarks and mountain hares reach a greater abundance on some of these hills than anywhere else in the arctic-alpine zone in Scotland, and ptarmigan, grouse and dotterel rear bigger broods here than elsewhere, which again indicates the underlying fertility. Several species of animals live at much higher altitudes than usual on some of these hills. This part of the Mounth [from Callater to Glen Ey] is therefore unique in Scotland for its wildlife interest both plant and animal". (A Watson). Long may we value and protect this precious area for its own sake. Not for us. Not as a 'resource'; and certainly not as a 'playground', adventure or otherwise.

A brief stop, then onwards to Little Glas Maol. We had just started the descent when we came across about forty (we guessed) mountain hares which scattered across the hillside as we approached. Ptarmigan, sheep and several herds of deer were other sightings. Otherwise we were alone all day - if you don't count the midges in sheltered spots.

Little Glas Maol came and went pleasantly as we wended our way to Monega Hill, diverting occasionally for the view down to Caenlochan Glen. Watson again: "one of the two best places in Britain for uncommon arctic-alpine plants. Here you may see snow gentian, blue sow thistle, woolly willow, boreal fleabane and other rarities" A place to visit on another occasion for sure.
It was no hardship to follow our outward route back to the 'van in the sunshine. Another simple, satisfying day in the hills.

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Carn an t-Sagairt Mor and Carn an t-Sagairt Beag

We set off for Loch Callater all the lighter for our £2.50 'donation' to path repair. Large holes were being filled to ensure, no doubt, a smooth passage for the Range Rovers and their clients but there was no such traffic this morning and no evidence of activity at the Lodge.
The route taken today is popular with TGO Challengers as they head out of Braemar for the east coast. Once high, numerous ways are possible: via Lochnagar to the Spittal; down to the Dubh Loch for a wild camp; over Cairn Bannoch and Broad Cairn then, from Sandy's Hut, a drop down to Bachnagairn and thence to Glen Clova. Or down to Loch Muick perhaps. It's not hard to see why these routes are popular. Our own cancelled/postponed crossing included Lochnagar among others. Maybe next year if we can fit it in.
On the summit we met a chap and his Border Collie who had come from Lochnagar and had found it awkward in the strong wind, a mere snuffle by yesterday's standard. They were about to set off on the last section of their eighteen mile round over Cairn Bannoch etc. This has become a popular way to do these Munros but doesn't give much time for exploration or diversion.
We paused at the cairn taking in the scene. As Lynne put it "You can stretch your eye in this immense landscape - but never enough."
Including a stop at the aircraft remains, it's a mere twenty minutes from the Munro to Carn a t-Sagairt Beag, not a Top of Carn a t-Sagairt Mor but of Carn a' Choire Bhoidheach. Munro trivia, I know, I know! The rocky summit is cairnless which perhaps says something about visitor numbers. We snuggled behind rocks to escape the wind and had lunch.
On our return journey we met a lady, a former member of Cairngorm MRT, and had a good natter about climbing, hills, islands visited and those yet to be explored. Full of life she was, her exuberance only exceeded by that of her two lovely dogs. She had thirty-eight Munros left and was saving Dreish and Mayar for last since they were easily accessible for a party with friends and family. Another pair arrived just as we were leaving and we recognised them from our aborted Lochnagar day. They had also retreated but no doubt would get their hill today.
Our descent was a leisurely one, encouraged by the warm atmosphere low down. A Range Rover was stationed at Callater Lodge and another guarded the start of the track. Royalty must have been about.
Oss - that's what I tell others but I'm not all that good at taking my own advice. I like misery - I am Scottish you know!
Conrad - thanks for pointing out my error and for generously allowing me to claim a typo. Unfortunately I can do no such thing and can only claim an aberration. I'll fix it when home and hope that there are no mistakes in this and future posts. It will be the BlackBerry's fault if there are! Your experience of flight on Blencathra sounds of longer duration than Lynne's, but luckily no harm was suffered by either . I love wild mountain weather - it adds an edge to the day.
AlanS - good to hear from you. The paths need a good hoover as well. We spoke of you as we traversed the hillside high above Loch Callater, knowing you often pass this way on the Challenge and love these hills.
AlanR - it was a wild day for sure. Too much common sense stifles action :-) which in turns makes you old! That's what I tell myself anyway.
Laura - Thanks for popping over. This area is very special - and I'm typing this a lot nearer to you than you might think!
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Tuesday 4 September - Lochnagar (nearly)

 

From the moment we set out from the Spittal of Glenmuick we knew there would be difficulties high up. They were apparent enough on the track to Allt-na-guibhsaich. On two occasions I was brought to a halt by the wind. Of course strong, gusty, winds aren't exactly rare in Scotland and it's something you get used to. In fact a calm day on Scottish hills is likely to elicit more comments than a windy one.

The Scots pines at Allt-na-guibhsaich brought a welcome, if brief, respite before we took to the open hillside again. At 500m I was blown from one side of the track to the other; Lynne was blown back down the track. There was no shelter but it was a gloriously beautiful September morning which made all the difference.

In due course we arrived below Meikle Pap and set off upwards without a pause. It was a struggle to stay upright and I resorted to moving crab-like across the boulder field. Lynne was doing no better lower down having been blown backwards clean off her feet and deposited on a flat boulder, luckily unhurt. On her arrival beside me, we conferred briefly. This was an accident waiting to happen we reckoned so we retreated without further discussion. Not even a wistful look back as we descended to the mossy col to view the cliffs and loch, take some pics (with difficulty) then nip up Meikle Pap as a consolation summit. It was more sheltered here but I didn't risk standing on the highest rocks. The wind still roared and continued to do so all the way back to the Spittal.

90mph+ we've since been told. As a rule I don't like turning back unless conditions are obviously dangerous and today we were maybe a bit too cautious, although the decision felt right at the time. A gust, a bad landing and fun can turn to broken bones so easily. Worse still, a head injury. I must be getting old! It's not me in the poem below though. Honest.

ANTE MORTEM by Syd Scroggie

I will attempt the Capel track
Old, stiff and retrograde
And get some pal to shove me on
Should resolution fade,
For I must see black Meikle Pap
Against a starry sky
And watch the dawn from Lochnagar
Once more before I die.
The golden plover whistled there
Before the fall of Man
And you can hear the brittle croak
Of lonely ptarmigan.
No heather there but boulders bare
And quartz and granite grit
And ribs of snow, bleak, old and grey
As I remember it.
And if I do not make the top
Then sit me on a stone,
Some lichened rock among the screes
And leave me there alone.
Yes, leave me there alone to hear
Where spout and buttress are
The breeze that stirs the little loch
On silent Lochnagar.

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Monday 3 September - An Socach

The day looked promising with just a sip of mist in Coire Chrid above Baddoch. We were off reasonably early to ensure trouble-free parking - there were stories of the wild, stormy west being abandoned by many in favour of the softer eastern weather.

An Socach can be climbed at any point from the path by the Baddoch Burn and a particularly fine start is by Sgor Mor but, having done this hill previously, we opted to follow the path to its terminus and gain the broad stony ridge from there. There were about a dozen bags of 'Highland Grouse Grit' lying at the high point. Well looked after these grouse; then shot.

The gentle ascent over grasses and short heather was all pleasure; the sun appeared; layers were shed and soon the summit was in sight. Overlooking lonely Loch nan Eun - a great spot for a camp - the views from the cairn were extensive in all directions: distant Ben Macdui and friends, Lochnagar et al; our closer neighbours Glas Tulaichean, Beinn Iutharn Mhor, to name but a few. Big landscape and big skies.

After the usual photography (and donning a top or several to combat the cold wind) we set off for the east Top and lunch. Thought I'd pulled a groin muscle along the way and expected problems after our stop. Nothing - no pain at all. Odd. Rain threatened our return to the 'van but never did more than that, though people we met were full of dire warnings about tomorrow's weather, contrary to every forecast we'd heard or seen since arriving. We'll see who's right in due course.

Alan R - no games as we arrived a day too late for that. There was a pipe band in the village late in the pm though.

Sir Hugh - no pressure as you say Conrad. The site is an excellent base with superb hill country on the doorstep, although there are some restrictions at this time of year that are best observed if you don't want shot!





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Braemar

We've stopped in the Glenshee car park for a coffee before the final short drive down Glen Clunie to the Caravan Club Site. The forecast is fine for the coming week so we're looking forward to some enjoyable days on the hills.


Thanks as always to D+D for looking after the house.

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Keswick

Smothered in 'outdoor shops' of varying quality, Keswick has lost most of its interest and character. [ Edit: this is way too harsh an assessment. It really is not fair at all!!]Even George Fisher's doesn't seem to be as well stocked as usual which might be driven by the economic climate, tighter controls by new owner Tiso or a combination of both.

So, home tomorrow after a thoroughly enjoyable holiday which included a day at the Beatrix Potter International Study Conference where a friend, and Keswick resident, gave a paper as scholarly as it was amusing; friends from the US whom we didn't expect to see there surprised us; and Lynne met Patron of The Beatrix Potter Society, Patricia Routledge, for the first time. But it's the days on the fells that were special.

If there is any summer left in Scotland we might manage a trip to Rum with the tent, but it will have to be fitted in between sorting out the garden and cutting the hedges. Oh, and I'll have to sort out the photographs.

Sir Hugh - AlanR has enlightened you before I could finish this post.

AlanR - thanks for the above. Resale? You must be joking! This is for self- medication only.

Thanks to both of you for your regular comments and company on this trip. I'll be catching up with your blogs next week to find out what you have been up to.










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Friday 13 July - Final day out

And so, in the late afternoon and for the last time this holiday, we passed along the honeysuckle lanes in the Newlands Valley. From Little Town, we'd climbed Catbells - it's a ritual thing - and we were happy to stand on its bare, rocky top on a calm and quite beautiful morning.

We met a lady there who offered to photograph us together. "No thanks, we've got hundreds in various stages of ageing", replied Lynne. " Would you like us to take one of you?" She had lots too, taken over the years, and said she'd stick with the younger versions!" It transpired that she'd been at a conference in Kendal, had seen the good weather forecast, chucked the tent in the car and extended her stay to do some walking.

Of course Catbells alone would have been too brief a day, so we crossed to Maiden Moor, to the cairn on Blea Crag and then along the edge of Eel Crags. A large, noisy rabble of an 'organised' group had surrounded the High Spy cairn and showed no sign of moving while they variously screamed, made 'phone calls etc. It seems the ability to scream is a pre-requisite for 'group activities' these days.

Tomorrow we'll have a look round Keswick market where in the past we've found some old climbing books of interest.

Sir Hugh - I've never done the round from Buttermere, always from Newlands which I think is one of the loveliest of valleys and, as you say, the view from Dale Head is one of the best in the Lakes. I remember the post about your hair-raising dash back to Honister to collect your wallet.

AlanR - We've not done badly for tops on this trip despite the unpromising weather forecasts at the start of the holiday. Today after our walk we bought some Holts at Booths to smuggle over the border on Sunday!
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Three fells - a brief post for the record

The previous offering was posted (but not written) sitting by the cairn on Hindscarth after a lovely walk from Dale Head. A saunter round Littledale Edge and short climb took us to Robinson where we lazed in the sun for ages. The Wasdale fells and Pillar looked particularly fine.

We descended somewhat reluctantly, as you do when conditions are so pleasant.

PhilR - Thanks for commenting. The weather has been much better than forecasted, with most of the rain falling overnight. The walking has been as enjoyable as ever.


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Wednesday 11 July - Dalehead Tarn, High Spy and Maiden Moor

First, well done to Alan Rayner for correctly identifying Eel Crags. [Sorry Andrew W and Conrad]

After a wet Tuesday in the Grisedale Tarn area, today was a proper summer's day

The walk to Dalehead Tarn was all pleasure with Dale Head filling the view ahead, the lovely waterfalls of Newlands Beck and the long line of Eel Crags rising above us. Despite all the rain we've had this week, their rocks looked dry and in good climbing condition but, unless and until I get my finger fixed, this fact was, I reflected with some regret, of no immediate importance.

Lunch was taken at the tarn, or at least in the sheep-fold close by, to escape the wind. Herdwicks grazed high on Dale Head and two others wandered into our enclosure, looked straight at us then paid us no heed. Without them the landscape wouldn't be what it is, the Lakes simply not the Lakes.

From High Spy's large cairn, Esk Pike, Great End, the Scafells and Great Gable looked inviting but sadly won't be visited on this trip. It's been many years since we stood on their summits but maybe later this year we will be once again on "the roof of England". I hope so.

A windy walk to Maiden Moor followed by a leisurely descent to Little Town, a lovely walk along lanes lined with holly, hazel, birch, oak, hawthorn, and much else, brought us back to the 'van and the end of a memorable day.




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Where is this?

Hint: there is a small tarn nearby.

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Monday 9 July - Ard Crags, Scar Crags and Causey Pike

According to Harry Griffin, it could be argued that Causey Pike is merely "the first incident on an extremely pleasant ridge" (to Scar Crags and beyond presumably) and "not really very much of a mountain". It could be argued no doubt, but I've never really regarded this fine little peak in such a way.

The ascent by Rowling End with its numerous rocky steps and the final scamble up the 'chimney' to the summit of Causey makes it feel much more than an 'incident' on a ridge to me.

The title of the post tells of what we climbed today - a day of drizzle and low cloud in the morning as we ascended via the Rigg Beck path - and of sunshine and flowing mists in the pm.

Alan- Thanks for both your comments. We like being based here since we can get to all our favourite areas relatively easily. High Moss - I wouldn't have known where it was either without checking the map. I just happened to have the Satmap on otherwise I'd probably have said 'from near Outerside'. Put that mint sauce away!

Conrad - I had planned to do a full post on this very topic when home, so I hope you won't mind waiting for a full' reply'. Like you my formative years were spent rock climbing in the Lake District (from 1967) and Lynne and I have been regular visitors since then. I know, therefore, where you're coming from, but I still have a great affection for the fells. More later and thanks for commenting.

D+D - thanks for looking after the house as usual.


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Saturday 7 July - Sail and Eel Crag (Crag Hill)

We expected the fells to be busy and they were. From High Moss hardly a gap could be seen between walkers making their way up Grisedale Pike. I'm exaggerating, of course, but not by much!

Shortly after we reached 'Sail Pass' others arrived from various directions, happy that the weather was dry and sunny. The cairn on Sail was partially 'moated', a sign that today's conditions had not been exactly common of late.

The summit of Crag Hill (or Eel Crag as I have always known it) is a rather good view point and we had it to ourselves to enjoy. We considered going on to Grasmoor but the broad unsightly path did not appeal and in any event a finer route follows the edge of Dove Crags overlooking Gasgale Gill.

We enjoyed a late and leisurely lunch on the grassy slopes above the path in the company of a few Herdwicks, one fast asleep, then made our way slowly down, often pausing to absorb the unique atmosphere of the fells.

A Herdwick lamb confidently approached us as we left Coledale Hause. Lovely.




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Thursday 5 July - Fine weather, fine fells

It was a pleasant surprise to wake to blue skies this morning and we wasted no time in getting away, just in case the old adage "bright too soon, rain by noon" held true.

We were heading for Coledale and passing through Braithwaite triggered memories of several Christmas Eves singing carols in the bar of the Royal Oak with the local Vicar at the piano. The hotel provided a free bowl of soup while a collection tin did the rounds.

It was hot and muggy as we made our way along the track to Force Crag Mine and not a soul did we meet until a family arrived at Coledale Hause having come up from Buttermere. We had no real objective today except to wander aimlessly, but Whiteside was tempting - until it became the only fell engulfed by cloud. After some procrastination (the penalty for having no fixed objectives) we opted for Hopegill Head whose airy summit is a pleasant spot.

However, the most interesting feature of this fell is Hobcarton Crag, a decaying, crumbling mass of Skiddaw slate which is the home of the red alpine catchfly. Apparently, the "rotteness of Hobcarton Crag is probably due to some potent mineral" and the red alpine catchfly can survive in Britain "only in conditions that are so repugnant to the majority of plants that any severe competition is eliminated". Bilberry (blaeberry) also grows in profusion.

As we left the top (after more procrastination) it looked as if weather was coming: dark clouds were gathering over all but the Helvellyn range but, by the time we arrived at Grisedale Pike's tiny cairn, things were looking up again and soon we were basking in sunshine. It was a slow descent with much lazing around in the heather near Sleet How and several stops to chat to walkers on their way up. An easy day out to start the holiday but, if the weather forecast is accurate, it might be our last in dry conditions.

Conrad: the photograph is looking towards Barf from near Castlerigg.

I hadn't read about Gayle's mishap. I'm sure she's in good hands.









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Lake District

Instead of "hills and burns" we are in the land of "fells and becks" after a two year absence, and it's very nice to be back. The weather is muggy but it's midge-free so I'm not complaining.

The fells tomorrow.


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Tuesday 5 June - Ben Suardal

I often find views from low hills superior to those from their higher brethern. Certainly the prospect of Bla Bheinn from diminutive Ben Suardal was exceptional today, the view across Strath Suardal to the rounded granite hills of Beinn na Caillich, Beinn Dearg Mhor and Beinn Dearg Bheag no less so.

Orchids, mountain aven, tormentil, dog violet, butterwort, birdsfoot- trefoil, tufted vetch and moss campion were all spotted (by Lynne mainly) on our way to the summit. Ben Suardal has the biggest expanse of Durness Limestone in Britain and some 63 million years ago molten volcanic rock combined with it to form Skye Marble, mined locally for 200 years.

A short descent brought us to Cill Chriosd where Lynne indulged her interest in such things before we walked the Marble Railway Path back to the motorcaravan. Next time on Skye, when the weather is a bit indifferent, we'll take the path to Boreraig and Suisnish on Loch Eishort, an area brutally cleared in the mid-19th century by Lord MacDonald's factors.






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