Still in the grip

Temperatures are still well below freezing here with minimums ranging from -15C to -10C over the last 4 nights. Snow still lies in the garden, but iron hard now. With bright blue skies and an Alpine calm, it is breathtakingly beautiful.

Dunmaglass update

Multi-millionairess Sigrid Rausing, who owns Coignafearn Estate in the Monadhliath mountains, is seeking a judicial review of Highland Regional Council's decision not to oppose the proposal for a 33 turbine wind farm on neighbouring Dunmaglass Estate. (see post 26 February this year). More than 1500 people and three community councils objected. (Source: Scottish Mountaineer)

The first hearing was scheduled for November although, as yet, I can't find any reports on the proceedings.

It just won't stop

Two days ago and it hasn't really stopped snowing since!

The tracks continued to just beyond the bushes and skis might have been useful thereafter, although ours are narrow competition style (we've never skied competitively) so the benefit would have been marginal.

Anyway, we knew we had a driveway to clear so headed back just as the forecasted bitter east wind started to blow.

We cleared it again yesterday and I'm off to do likewise again. Almost 2ft of snow now in the garden.

If you read this Hugh, I hope you are surviving where you are!

Saved

More snow

I've just been out to feed the birds - they are desperate - and have measured about a foot of snow in the garden. Looks like 2010 is (almost) going out like it came in. Another 10" to fall today apparently.

Waiting for breakfast



Martin Banfield is stuck (or has been) at Morrisons car park in Perth but I can't even think about popping up to see him. Pity really. Hope you make it home today Martin.



Lammermuir Hills and Highland Perthshire wind turbines

Yesterday I posted good news about sea eagles. Today it's bad news, at least from my perspective. The Duke of Roxburghe has won a seven year battle to establish 48 wind trubines at Fallago Rig in the Lammermuir Hills, south of Edinburgh. He stands to earn £2.5m a year from the project.

There has been fierce local opposition (supported by David Bellamy) to the turbines, but the Scottish Government continues its obsession with on-shore wind farms. I believe the local community are determined to continue the fight against this decision.

In Highland Perthshire 27 wind turbines south of Aberfeldy were recently approved by the Scottish Government, again against local opposition. To add insult to injury, Perth and Kinross Council, who opposed the development, have been handed the bill for the developer's legal costs.

I suspect the people of East Lothian and Highland Perthshire will not forget all this when the Scottish Election takes place next May.

Edit: Don't buy a house in upland Scotland. You won't like what will, in time, arrive on your doorstep.

Snow

It's not the first snow to fall on the hills as we approach winter, but the cover on the Ben Lawers range looked pretty enticing today. The photograph is taken using a compact digital on full zoom so quality is compromised somewhat.

Carrion Crows

Yesterday we saw two carrion crows in the rear garden finishing off what remained of a young pigeon, we think. Our first reaction was that our sparrowhawk had paid another visit, although it's never left any remains behind before for crows and the like. Then we noticed the mark on the door window and concluded that the youngster had flown into it and either been  killed or badly injured; the carrions had moved in.

Despite having bird silhouette stickers on most of the windows we still get a fair number of casualties each year, although we've revived a few unfortunates over the years too.

Variable snow cover

Just back from a trip to the Mamores and Loch Ailort area. Very variable snow cover as can be seen from these pics. I've put a few more up at http://afootinthehills.smugmug.com/Mamores-and-LochAilort  which might give Challengers planning to start at Loch Ailort and/or take in the Mamores, Ben Nevis, Aonachs etc, some idea of snow conditions. Still early days though.

Loch Beoraid

The Devil's Ridge to Sgurr a' Mhaim

Northern Corrie and summit ridge of Sgurr a' Mhaim

A June day on Ben More Coigach*

Beinn Ghobhlach

 As an antidote to the recent return of snow, sleet and strong winds I began looking at some photographs of summer days spent on the hills of the NW Highlands, and one set of images in particular transported me northwards: I was in Coigach on two magical June days.

Coigach means 'Fifth-part', the old Celtic custom being to divide land into five parts. So Coigach is the Coigach of Ross, the fifth part of the Cromarties and it is the land from Outer Loch Broom to the Sutherland border.

It had been several years since we had visited this area and now we were returning to meet friends based at Ardmair Bay, some three miles north of Ullapool. When we arrived, the bay was hidden by a rolling sea mist which occasionally shredded and eventually dispersed revealing blue skies and lovely Beinn Ghoblach.

As you descend the steep hill towards Ardmair the most striking sight is Ben More Coigach appearing as a wall of sandstone riven with gullies. Its westernmost top, Garbh Choireachan, drops abruptly to the coastal path which joins the Achiltibuie road near Culnacraig. Exposed to the Minch, the settlements along this coast are offered some welcome protection by the Summer Isles.

We had climbed Ben More Coigach many years previously but our two friends had not and we needed no persuading to accompany them on a second ascent. Parking at Blughasary we took the track to the bridge over the River Runie, quiet after six weeks of drought, and continued along the coastal path before breaking off up the slopes to the east of Beannan Beaga to Lochan Eadan dha Bheinn. Higher up we crossed great slabs dotted with spheres of rock, all Torridonian sandstone, before the final ascent to Speicein Coinnich.

The slopes to Speicein Coinnich

We were soon on this first top and the true character of the hill was revealed to our two companions (well four actually, including their dogs). On the summit of Ben More itself, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and discussed where to go next. Tom pondered taking the narrow ridge to Garbh Choireachan and returning to Blughasary by the previously mentioned (and exciting in places) coastal path. Lynne and I had already been along the ridge to Garbh Choireachan and were happy to visit again, but a return by the path on such a perfect day for the tops was easily rejected by all of us.


 Long ago the postman walked this arduous coastal route to deliver the mail and was paid 2/3d per journey. 'Taking the Rock' was how folk described the way via Ben More Coigach when coming to or from Ullapool.

The interesting ridge to Garbh Choireachan

In the end we decided to head for Sgurr an Fhidhleir, an impressive peak with 200m cliffs plunging to Lochan an Tuath.

Sgurr an Fhidhleir from Beinn an Eoin

 From the opposite shore of this lochan rises twin-topped Beinn an Eoin, 619m, which we all agreed looked worthy of attention.

Sgorr Tuath, Beinn an Eoin - familiar hills beyond

From Sgurr an Fhidhleir's airy summit the hills of the Inverpolly Nature Reserve, Assynt and Sutherland were a familiar and welcome sight. We lingered at the cairn, reluctant to leave, but eventually turned and retraced our route to Speicein Coinnich. Terns graced the head of Loch a' Chlaiginn as we passed on our way back. Curlews called on the moor. It had been a grand day shared with good friends and the comment made by Colin Kirkus to Alf Bridge on the summit of Sgurr Alasdair summed up our feelings:

"You know Alf, going to the right place at the right time, with the right people is all that really matters. What one does is purely incidental."

Today, Coigach had been the right place; Tom and Chris the right people.

*Note: I have not used the OS spelling of Ben (Mor) Coigach but have opted for the fully anglicized form rather the half-way house as it were. Both forms seem acceptable. Probably something like 'Beinn Mhòr ǹa Coigich' is the full Gaelic name, but I'm no expert. As Hamish Brown points out, the experts only disgagree anyway!

Dunmaglass and Moy Estates - Wind Turbines

I've just heard that Highland Council planning committee have voted by six to two in favour of the erection of 33 wind turbines on the Dunmaglass Estate. The Cairngorm National Park Authority and The John Muir Trust opposed the application and 1556 letters of objection were received and 912 for.

Meanwhile Carbon Free Developments want to establish 55 turbines on the Moy Estate and will likely submit an application later this year. The developer will probably offer free or discounted power as a community benefit.

I'm afraid there is simply no stopping the march of these ineffective monstrosities across Scotland.

A Walk in Flyrocs

Tuesday 23 March

I bought a pair of Inov8 Flyroc 345 GTX on Monday. It was a bit of a risk since I have a metatarso-phalangeal joint  injury on my left foot and using lightweight footwear on the hill usually means pain, whereas I have had none at all this winter using my Meindl Borneos.

Yesterday I decided to take them on their first walk, an easy one from Castlehill Reservoir through to Castle Campbell via the old drove road. The morning's early promise vanished in thick cloud cover and a spritely breeze, but larks were rising, curlews were crying and around Glen Quey reservoir black-headed gulls congregated noisily.

Snapped trees and branches reminded of the severe winter just gone (almost) and frogspawn that spring was here (almost).

We passed Maiden's Well which is on record as early as the mid-1800s. Legend has it that the spirit of a young woman haunts the well and could be called forth at night by potential suitors. However, those who dared to do so were discovered dead in the morning.  

Records show that she was a princess held captive in Castle Campbell, known at that time as Castle Gloom, because she had dared to fall in love with a man below her station; sometimes her gaolers would allow her to walk to the well to drink its waters.

Full marks for the walk and so far for the Flyrocs, but to find out if the joint injury would remain pain free in these lightweights, some ascent over rougher ground was called for. Whitewisp Hill rose conveniently above us and by the time we reached the cairn I was fairly sure they would be fine. The rest of the walk over Innerdownie and down its steep slopes back to the car seemed to confirm they had been a good buy. Only longer and rougher walks will truly tell.

Their first summit!

River Braan Hydro Scheme

As Chris Townsend has reported (see also Byeways for further comment), the above proposal has thankfully been rejected by the Scottish Executive. It would have been an appalling assault on a magnificent river and thanks must go to all who successfully opposed it.

 River Braan near Rumbling Bridge

A day in The Lomonds and The Well at Scotlandwell

This is a fine little group of hills and it was time for a visit. Only a 15 minute drive from home, West and East Lomond and Bishop Hill rise above Loch Leven in Kinross-shire to 522m, 424m and c457m respectively and we were heading for the southernmost, Bishop Hill.

Loch Leven

It was pleasant walking in the warm sunshine, but a cold wind soon reminded that spring was firmly trapped on the lower slopes. Someone had been post-holing, probably the day before when the snow was soft, and we followed the thigh-deep holes until the hardening surface allowed us to escape them and choose our own line. The area is popular with hang-gliders and para-gliders; fixed-wing gliders are catapulted into the air above Loch Leven from nearby Portmoak airfield and we watched several thrust skyward before noticing a para-glider drifting above us.

Para-gliding above Bishop Hill

We crossed the wind-scoured undulating plateaux towards the top of Bishop Hill, our plan being to re-aquaint ourselves with 13m Carlin Maggie, turned to stone for challenging the Devil's authority.

 Towards Bishop Hill, centre

  

Carlin Maggie 

Lynne wanted to have a look at the 'Well' at Scotlandwell, so foregoing a descent into the Covenanter's Glen and a climb to West Lomond Hill, we retraced our steps for tea in the spring sunshine and a short walk to the village.

The Well at Scotlandwell

A Drinking Cup remains for those who feel in need of a cure.

Cairngorm explosions

Such has been the snowfall in the Highlands this winter that, for the very first time, controlled explosions have been carried out to check the stability of the snowpack in the Cairngorm ski area. As a further reminder of the dangerous conditions prevailing in the hills, a huge avalanche has swept the west face of Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe - see Alan Kimber's site.

Yesterday, driving down Glen Eagles in glorious spring sunshine, we saw the debris of an avalanche which had blocked the road last week. It was easily big enough to have carried away any passing car and the slopes of the modest hills rising above the A823, were covered in medium-sized avalanche tracks.

Carlin Maggie, Bishop Hill

On Monday, I found myself on windslab as I made my way across the slopes to photograph this pinnacle. Needless to say, I made a rapid retreat and approached by a safer route.

'Mountain Elixir'

I first came upon the recipe for the above beverage when given my first climbing guide as a Christmas present. It had been neatly written inside the red cover of the SMC's 'Climbers' Guide to Glen Coe and Ardgour' Vol 1, along with a description of its considerable benefits when climbing mountains. But alas I was too young to sample it.

A few months later I came across it again, being used in earnest, as it were, by Bill Murray and R G Donaldson on their successful traverse of the Cuillin Main Ridge plus Clach Glas and Blaven in August 1939, now known as 'The Greater Traverse'. Leaving Glen Brittle at 10 pm, they rested on the summit of Garsbheinn at the southern end of the ridge, left there at 2 am and arrived at a pre-pitched tent at Loch an Athain in Glen Sligachan at 4pm.

Only Clach Glas and Blaven remained to be climbed and Murray writes of how they 'enlivened their diet' with a shared pint of, 'Mummery's Blood', prior to climbing these two peaks: 'equal parts navy rum and Bovril, served boiling hot. Its effect on both mind and body is nourishing, warming, strengthening; it lowers angles, shortens distances, and improves weather'

                                 Clach Glas                                                 

                            

Winter

Lots more snow today, at least 9", and a 5 hour power cut to help things along. Heating bills aside, don't you just love a real winter?

More winter weather

It's snowing heavily again and I've just been out to feed the birds. We've spent most days this month on the local hills, so when we spoke yesterday of heading north soon, we sort of guessed that the weather would break! Anyway, I'm going to pop over to Alan Kimber's site (see Links on this blog) to have a look at conditions. This is an excellent site and even if you don't climb it's worth a look just for the pics and other information.

Ben Cleuch

Sheep Rescue

Our walk yesterday was delayed somewhat when we spotted a sheep in what appeared to be the same place it was in three days earlier, and went to investgate. Lynne got the binocs out while I started the descent to the burn, and sure enough it was well and truly trapped with a hind leg caught in the top wires of a fence. Eventually, with the help of a chap from the house near the reservoir and wire cutters, she was released. That's my eighth I think. Deer we have found similarly trapped have not been so lucky, being dead long before our arrival, like this little shrew in its Mithril-like vest.

It was about mid-day by the time we got underway again and the forecast predicted poor weather moving in early in the afternoon. No sign of it though as we stopped for lunch in the sun.

It arrived on the top of our hill for the day and stayed for the descent.

It had been a shorter day than we'd planned but all these relatively short trips, averaging about 6 hours, have kept us fit and ready for a trip north soon. Just need to get the box back on top of the camper van and we'll be ready for the off.

"What hills are like the Ochil Hills?"

Apart from the rhythmic crunch of boots on hard snow, all was silent; the February sun had only a trickle of warmth. Our eyes were constantly drawn to the north by the snowy peaks of Ben Vorlich, Stuc a Chroin and the Ben Lawers group, but today we were happy to be here climbing the friendly familiar slopes of Innerdownie Hill.

The cairn was a cold and exposed place so we headed for the shelter a short distance from there, but it was completely filled with snow.
                                      

The drystane dyke, part of which can be seen, was built by a local man and his brother in the early 1890s.

The Shelter

 Constructing a small wooden hut inside, they spent two summers up here building or repairing all the walls running over the surrounding hillsides and once a week they would walk down to Dollar, at the foot of the southern slopes of the Ochils, for provisions. We didn't linger long since we intended to visit Tarmangie, the hill to the far left in the picture below, and enjoy the grand panorama to the north en route.

               Drystane dyke running from Innerdownie

I have a great affinity with the Ochils, a predominantly grassy range of hills running for about 45 km west to east and 13 km north to south and I climbed the highest, Ben Cleuch (721m) when 9 years old. Only Dumyat at the western end is craggy and I did my first rock climb there, Raeburn's Gully (of Harold fame) 6 years later. I am eternally grateful to the teacher who introduced me to climbing, by leading me up the route on as foul an evening as could be imagined.  Such a long and happy association with these hills makes it hard, therefore, to witness the thuggery now in progress preparing the way for 13 wind turbines on Burnfoot Hill; turbines which will be seen from every summit of the Ochils, completely ruin the view northwards from many of them, and destroy the feeling of tranquility.  But it's equally heartbreaking to see this happening on a masssive scale across the Scottish hills.
  

NW to Stuc a Chroin and Ben Vorlich                     

Happily I was not thinking these gloomy thoughts as we strode along the flat ridge, keeping to the hard snow for easy going, and noting that Glen Quey Reservoir, like the three others in these hills, was still frozen.

                                 Frozen Glen Quey Reservoir

Save for a solitary crow, birds and other wildlife were not to be seen though there were many faint tracks in the snow. We reached the top of Tarmangie in a biting northerly wind  ".....austere and pure".   

What hills are like the Ochil Hills?

- There's nane sae green tho' grander.

What rills are like the Ochil rills?

Nane, nane on earth that wander.

Anonymous