Saturday 8 September - Return to Lochnagar

 

Half the population of Aberdeenshire were on the hill today, or at least in the immediate environs. Or so it seemed. But it was after all a Saturday, and a beautiful one at that. Fortunately we were ahead of most of them by a good distance, with only the wind for company, as we followed the rim of the great NE corrie most of the way to the trig point perched on the granite boulders of Cac Carn Beag. An Aberdeen lad offered us a dram from his hip flask (declined!) before he went off to find a quiet spot to read his book.

To the west of Lochnagar lies The Stuic, its broken, north-facing rocks falling to Loch nan Eun. A perfect setting in Coire Loch nan Eun, corrie of the loch of the birds.

From top of the Red Spout, which in summer can be descended to the loch, we diverted to Cuidhe Crom over the pathless plateau with its golden autumnal grasses and pancake granite rocks. Here our plans, such as they were, changed, and instead of a descent via Little Pap to Glas-allt Shiel, we voted to stay high. It will be no hardship to return for Little Pap and to Meall Coire na Saobhaidhe, no hardship at all. And there is so much more to explore on this, one of the finest hills in Scotland.

The 200m cliffs of Creagan Lochnagar are steeped in climbing history. J H B Bell, Patey, Brooker, Quinn and Lang among others, pioneered routes. In 1958, Edinburgh climber Jimmy Marshall snatched the first winter ascent of Parallel Gully B causing something of a stir among the local Aberdeen climbers.

It's thirty six years since we last stood on the summit so to celebrate we had a tour of Royal Lochnagar Distillery, and bought a bottle of their 12 year old Royal Lochnagar malt.

AlanR - thanks for your comment on the previous post Alan. Surprising that we met no other walkers on such easily accessible hills. I'm looking forward to seeing your photographs from the Gairloch trip.

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Friday 7 September - Monega Hill

The Monega Pass, from Glen Clunie to Glen Isla is the highest of the rights of way across the Mounth. Before beginning its final descent to Tulchan Lodge the track passes west of the 908m summit of Monega Hill, our objective for the day, overlooking Caenlochan.

We, however, were not approaching from Glen Clunie but from Glas Maol so we parked up in the ski area just a few yards from the Perth and Kinross border. It's easy to forget just what a big county P&K is and how varied its scenery. Lucky us. Anyway, we made quick progress through the paraphernalia of the ski grounds and across the arctic-alpine grassland of the Glas Maol to the trig point and shelter. The sheer spaciousness of these Mounth hills never fails to lift the spirits.

"A feature of all these fertile hills is that vegetation covers far more of the ground than at the same altitude in the Cairngorms, with very little bare gravel or screes. Ptarmigan, red grouse, dunlin, skylarks and mountain hares reach a greater abundance on some of these hills than anywhere else in the arctic-alpine zone in Scotland, and ptarmigan, grouse and dotterel rear bigger broods here than elsewhere, which again indicates the underlying fertility. Several species of animals live at much higher altitudes than usual on some of these hills. This part of the Mounth [from Callater to Glen Ey] is therefore unique in Scotland for its wildlife interest both plant and animal". (A Watson). Long may we value and protect this precious area for its own sake. Not for us. Not as a 'resource'; and certainly not as a 'playground', adventure or otherwise.

A brief stop, then onwards to Little Glas Maol. We had just started the descent when we came across about forty (we guessed) mountain hares which scattered across the hillside as we approached. Ptarmigan, sheep and several herds of deer were other sightings. Otherwise we were alone all day - if you don't count the midges in sheltered spots.

Little Glas Maol came and went pleasantly as we wended our way to Monega Hill, diverting occasionally for the view down to Caenlochan Glen. Watson again: "one of the two best places in Britain for uncommon arctic-alpine plants. Here you may see snow gentian, blue sow thistle, woolly willow, boreal fleabane and other rarities" A place to visit on another occasion for sure.
It was no hardship to follow our outward route back to the 'van in the sunshine. Another simple, satisfying day in the hills.

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Carn an t-Sagairt Mor and Carn an t-Sagairt Beag

We set off for Loch Callater all the lighter for our £2.50 'donation' to path repair. Large holes were being filled to ensure, no doubt, a smooth passage for the Range Rovers and their clients but there was no such traffic this morning and no evidence of activity at the Lodge.
The route taken today is popular with TGO Challengers as they head out of Braemar for the east coast. Once high, numerous ways are possible: via Lochnagar to the Spittal; down to the Dubh Loch for a wild camp; over Cairn Bannoch and Broad Cairn then, from Sandy's Hut, a drop down to Bachnagairn and thence to Glen Clova. Or down to Loch Muick perhaps. It's not hard to see why these routes are popular. Our own cancelled/postponed crossing included Lochnagar among others. Maybe next year if we can fit it in.
On the summit we met a chap and his Border Collie who had come from Lochnagar and had found it awkward in the strong wind, a mere snuffle by yesterday's standard. They were about to set off on the last section of their eighteen mile round over Cairn Bannoch etc. This has become a popular way to do these Munros but doesn't give much time for exploration or diversion.
We paused at the cairn taking in the scene. As Lynne put it "You can stretch your eye in this immense landscape - but never enough."
Including a stop at the aircraft remains, it's a mere twenty minutes from the Munro to Carn a t-Sagairt Beag, not a Top of Carn a t-Sagairt Mor but of Carn a' Choire Bhoidheach. Munro trivia, I know, I know! The rocky summit is cairnless which perhaps says something about visitor numbers. We snuggled behind rocks to escape the wind and had lunch.
On our return journey we met a lady, a former member of Cairngorm MRT, and had a good natter about climbing, hills, islands visited and those yet to be explored. Full of life she was, her exuberance only exceeded by that of her two lovely dogs. She had thirty-eight Munros left and was saving Dreish and Mayar for last since they were easily accessible for a party with friends and family. Another pair arrived just as we were leaving and we recognised them from our aborted Lochnagar day. They had also retreated but no doubt would get their hill today.
Our descent was a leisurely one, encouraged by the warm atmosphere low down. A Range Rover was stationed at Callater Lodge and another guarded the start of the track. Royalty must have been about.
Oss - that's what I tell others but I'm not all that good at taking my own advice. I like misery - I am Scottish you know!
Conrad - thanks for pointing out my error and for generously allowing me to claim a typo. Unfortunately I can do no such thing and can only claim an aberration. I'll fix it when home and hope that there are no mistakes in this and future posts. It will be the BlackBerry's fault if there are! Your experience of flight on Blencathra sounds of longer duration than Lynne's, but luckily no harm was suffered by either . I love wild mountain weather - it adds an edge to the day.
AlanS - good to hear from you. The paths need a good hoover as well. We spoke of you as we traversed the hillside high above Loch Callater, knowing you often pass this way on the Challenge and love these hills.
AlanR - it was a wild day for sure. Too much common sense stifles action :-) which in turns makes you old! That's what I tell myself anyway.
Laura - Thanks for popping over. This area is very special - and I'm typing this a lot nearer to you than you might think!
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Tuesday 4 September - Lochnagar (nearly)

 

From the moment we set out from the Spittal of Glenmuick we knew there would be difficulties high up. They were apparent enough on the track to Allt-na-guibhsaich. On two occasions I was brought to a halt by the wind. Of course strong, gusty, winds aren't exactly rare in Scotland and it's something you get used to. In fact a calm day on Scottish hills is likely to elicit more comments than a windy one.

The Scots pines at Allt-na-guibhsaich brought a welcome, if brief, respite before we took to the open hillside again. At 500m I was blown from one side of the track to the other; Lynne was blown back down the track. There was no shelter but it was a gloriously beautiful September morning which made all the difference.

In due course we arrived below Meikle Pap and set off upwards without a pause. It was a struggle to stay upright and I resorted to moving crab-like across the boulder field. Lynne was doing no better lower down having been blown backwards clean off her feet and deposited on a flat boulder, luckily unhurt. On her arrival beside me, we conferred briefly. This was an accident waiting to happen we reckoned so we retreated without further discussion. Not even a wistful look back as we descended to the mossy col to view the cliffs and loch, take some pics (with difficulty) then nip up Meikle Pap as a consolation summit. It was more sheltered here but I didn't risk standing on the highest rocks. The wind still roared and continued to do so all the way back to the Spittal.

90mph+ we've since been told. As a rule I don't like turning back unless conditions are obviously dangerous and today we were maybe a bit too cautious, although the decision felt right at the time. A gust, a bad landing and fun can turn to broken bones so easily. Worse still, a head injury. I must be getting old! It's not me in the poem below though. Honest.

ANTE MORTEM by Syd Scroggie

I will attempt the Capel track
Old, stiff and retrograde
And get some pal to shove me on
Should resolution fade,
For I must see black Meikle Pap
Against a starry sky
And watch the dawn from Lochnagar
Once more before I die.
The golden plover whistled there
Before the fall of Man
And you can hear the brittle croak
Of lonely ptarmigan.
No heather there but boulders bare
And quartz and granite grit
And ribs of snow, bleak, old and grey
As I remember it.
And if I do not make the top
Then sit me on a stone,
Some lichened rock among the screes
And leave me there alone.
Yes, leave me there alone to hear
Where spout and buttress are
The breeze that stirs the little loch
On silent Lochnagar.

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Monday 3 September - An Socach

The day looked promising with just a sip of mist in Coire Chrid above Baddoch. We were off reasonably early to ensure trouble-free parking - there were stories of the wild, stormy west being abandoned by many in favour of the softer eastern weather.

An Socach can be climbed at any point from the path by the Baddoch Burn and a particularly fine start is by Sgor Mor but, having done this hill previously, we opted to follow the path to its terminus and gain the broad stony ridge from there. There were about a dozen bags of 'Highland Grouse Grit' lying at the high point. Well looked after these grouse; then shot.

The gentle ascent over grasses and short heather was all pleasure; the sun appeared; layers were shed and soon the summit was in sight. Overlooking lonely Loch nan Eun - a great spot for a camp - the views from the cairn were extensive in all directions: distant Ben Macdui and friends, Lochnagar et al; our closer neighbours Glas Tulaichean, Beinn Iutharn Mhor, to name but a few. Big landscape and big skies.

After the usual photography (and donning a top or several to combat the cold wind) we set off for the east Top and lunch. Thought I'd pulled a groin muscle along the way and expected problems after our stop. Nothing - no pain at all. Odd. Rain threatened our return to the 'van but never did more than that, though people we met were full of dire warnings about tomorrow's weather, contrary to every forecast we'd heard or seen since arriving. We'll see who's right in due course.

Alan R - no games as we arrived a day too late for that. There was a pipe band in the village late in the pm though.

Sir Hugh - no pressure as you say Conrad. The site is an excellent base with superb hill country on the doorstep, although there are some restrictions at this time of year that are best observed if you don't want shot!





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Braemar

We've stopped in the Glenshee car park for a coffee before the final short drive down Glen Clunie to the Caravan Club Site. The forecast is fine for the coming week so we're looking forward to some enjoyable days on the hills.


Thanks as always to D+D for looking after the house.

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Glen Doe

 
The Glen Doe hydro electric scheme is operational again so presumably access for walkers is back to normal.  Maybe.

The Eiger – Fatal Attraction (repeat). BBC4, 8pm Wednesday 22 August

Superb skiing conditions in Wengen - photo (scanned from slide) taken from Wengernalp. The hot chocolate and cake wasn't bad either!

For anyone with an interest in climbing history (or anyone without for that matter) – this is worth watching.   Even at Swiss prices this makes me want to go back!

Skye calling

It's a sure sign of withdrawal symptoms when this little verse keeps going round in my head. It refers of course to the Dubh Ridge, the "best easy climb in Skye", Maylard and Solly being past presidents of the SMC.

'Said Maylard to Solly one day in Glen Brittle,
   All serious climbing, I vote, is a bore;
Just for once, I Dubh Beag you'll agree to do little,
   And, as less we can't do, let's go straight to Dubh Mor.

'So now when they seek but a day's relaxation,
    With no thought in the world but of viewing the views,
And regarding the mountains in mute adoration,
    They call it not "climbing", but "doing The Dubhs"

Lynne on the coastal path to Loch Coruisk and the start of the Dubh Ridge

 For years a good friend has wanted to climb the Dubh Ridge with us but distance, weather, injury and just getting our act together to be on Skye at the same time have proved much greater obstacles than the climb itself could ever be. I often encouraged him to go it alone in our absence but, despite many other escapades on the Main Ridge involving much harder climbing, he maintained he wasn't a climber and his various visits to Coruisk never included as much as a skirmish with this enticing sweep of gabbro slabs. The continuation from Sgurr Dubh Beag to Sgurr Dubh Mor is a little problematic and involves (usually) a rather hairy abseil, but the atmosphere of the climbing on the slabs themselves is perfectly captured by the above ditty. If you read this Tom then "Jan will meet us at Glen Brittle so we can do the complete traverse", would be a the ideal response. Just click 'comments'! In any event we'll be off soon.

All in all, I'd rather be here

..but unfortunately garden, cutting hedges and some outside work on the house have anchored us firmly at home, although we have managed a couple of days on the local hills. Thankfully, our next trip is not too far off but the destination is flexible. Thanks to Alan Rayner, Martin Banfield and Sir Hugh for providing interesting reading on their respective blogs - always worth a visit. Hopefully I'll be able to post something of interest soon!