Tuesday 4 September - Lochnagar (nearly)

 

From the moment we set out from the Spittal of Glenmuick we knew there would be difficulties high up. They were apparent enough on the track to Allt-na-guibhsaich. On two occasions I was brought to a halt by the wind. Of course strong, gusty, winds aren't exactly rare in Scotland and it's something you get used to. In fact a calm day on Scottish hills is likely to elicit more comments than a windy one.

The Scots pines at Allt-na-guibhsaich brought a welcome, if brief, respite before we took to the open hillside again. At 500m I was blown from one side of the track to the other; Lynne was blown back down the track. There was no shelter but it was a gloriously beautiful September morning which made all the difference.

In due course we arrived below Meikle Pap and set off upwards without a pause. It was a struggle to stay upright and I resorted to moving crab-like across the boulder field. Lynne was doing no better lower down having been blown backwards clean off her feet and deposited on a flat boulder, luckily unhurt. On her arrival beside me, we conferred briefly. This was an accident waiting to happen we reckoned so we retreated without further discussion. Not even a wistful look back as we descended to the mossy col to view the cliffs and loch, take some pics (with difficulty) then nip up Meikle Pap as a consolation summit. It was more sheltered here but I didn't risk standing on the highest rocks. The wind still roared and continued to do so all the way back to the Spittal.

90mph+ we've since been told. As a rule I don't like turning back unless conditions are obviously dangerous and today we were maybe a bit too cautious, although the decision felt right at the time. A gust, a bad landing and fun can turn to broken bones so easily. Worse still, a head injury. I must be getting old! It's not me in the poem below though. Honest.

ANTE MORTEM by Syd Scroggie

I will attempt the Capel track
Old, stiff and retrograde
And get some pal to shove me on
Should resolution fade,
For I must see black Meikle Pap
Against a starry sky
And watch the dawn from Lochnagar
Once more before I die.
The golden plover whistled there
Before the fall of Man
And you can hear the brittle croak
Of lonely ptarmigan.
No heather there but boulders bare
And quartz and granite grit
And ribs of snow, bleak, old and grey
As I remember it.
And if I do not make the top
Then sit me on a stone,
Some lichened rock among the screes
And leave me there alone.
Yes, leave me there alone to hear
Where spout and buttress are
The breeze that stirs the little loch
On silent Lochnagar.

Sent from my BlackBerry®

Monday 3 September - An Socach

The day looked promising with just a sip of mist in Coire Chrid above Baddoch. We were off reasonably early to ensure trouble-free parking - there were stories of the wild, stormy west being abandoned by many in favour of the softer eastern weather.

An Socach can be climbed at any point from the path by the Baddoch Burn and a particularly fine start is by Sgor Mor but, having done this hill previously, we opted to follow the path to its terminus and gain the broad stony ridge from there. There were about a dozen bags of 'Highland Grouse Grit' lying at the high point. Well looked after these grouse; then shot.

The gentle ascent over grasses and short heather was all pleasure; the sun appeared; layers were shed and soon the summit was in sight. Overlooking lonely Loch nan Eun - a great spot for a camp - the views from the cairn were extensive in all directions: distant Ben Macdui and friends, Lochnagar et al; our closer neighbours Glas Tulaichean, Beinn Iutharn Mhor, to name but a few. Big landscape and big skies.

After the usual photography (and donning a top or several to combat the cold wind) we set off for the east Top and lunch. Thought I'd pulled a groin muscle along the way and expected problems after our stop. Nothing - no pain at all. Odd. Rain threatened our return to the 'van but never did more than that, though people we met were full of dire warnings about tomorrow's weather, contrary to every forecast we'd heard or seen since arriving. We'll see who's right in due course.

Alan R - no games as we arrived a day too late for that. There was a pipe band in the village late in the pm though.

Sir Hugh - no pressure as you say Conrad. The site is an excellent base with superb hill country on the doorstep, although there are some restrictions at this time of year that are best observed if you don't want shot!





Sent from my BlackBerry®

Braemar

We've stopped in the Glenshee car park for a coffee before the final short drive down Glen Clunie to the Caravan Club Site. The forecast is fine for the coming week so we're looking forward to some enjoyable days on the hills.


Thanks as always to D+D for looking after the house.

Sent from my BlackBerry®

Glen Doe

 
The Glen Doe hydro electric scheme is operational again so presumably access for walkers is back to normal.  Maybe.

The Eiger – Fatal Attraction (repeat). BBC4, 8pm Wednesday 22 August

Superb skiing conditions in Wengen - photo (scanned from slide) taken from Wengernalp. The hot chocolate and cake wasn't bad either!

For anyone with an interest in climbing history (or anyone without for that matter) – this is worth watching.   Even at Swiss prices this makes me want to go back!

Skye calling

It's a sure sign of withdrawal symptoms when this little verse keeps going round in my head. It refers of course to the Dubh Ridge, the "best easy climb in Skye", Maylard and Solly being past presidents of the SMC.

'Said Maylard to Solly one day in Glen Brittle,
   All serious climbing, I vote, is a bore;
Just for once, I Dubh Beag you'll agree to do little,
   And, as less we can't do, let's go straight to Dubh Mor.

'So now when they seek but a day's relaxation,
    With no thought in the world but of viewing the views,
And regarding the mountains in mute adoration,
    They call it not "climbing", but "doing The Dubhs"

Lynne on the coastal path to Loch Coruisk and the start of the Dubh Ridge

 For years a good friend has wanted to climb the Dubh Ridge with us but distance, weather, injury and just getting our act together to be on Skye at the same time have proved much greater obstacles than the climb itself could ever be. I often encouraged him to go it alone in our absence but, despite many other escapades on the Main Ridge involving much harder climbing, he maintained he wasn't a climber and his various visits to Coruisk never included as much as a skirmish with this enticing sweep of gabbro slabs. The continuation from Sgurr Dubh Beag to Sgurr Dubh Mor is a little problematic and involves (usually) a rather hairy abseil, but the atmosphere of the climbing on the slabs themselves is perfectly captured by the above ditty. If you read this Tom then "Jan will meet us at Glen Brittle so we can do the complete traverse", would be a the ideal response. Just click 'comments'! In any event we'll be off soon.

All in all, I'd rather be here

..but unfortunately garden, cutting hedges and some outside work on the house have anchored us firmly at home, although we have managed a couple of days on the local hills. Thankfully, our next trip is not too far off but the destination is flexible. Thanks to Alan Rayner, Martin Banfield and Sir Hugh for providing interesting reading on their respective blogs - always worth a visit. Hopefully I'll be able to post something of interest soon!

Lake District

There are some photographs here for anyone who is interested. I've not captioned many since I'm sure it's all very familiar terrain for most. Some duplication is unavoidable.

Keswick

Smothered in 'outdoor shops' of varying quality, Keswick has lost most of its interest and character. [ Edit: this is way too harsh an assessment. It really is not fair at all!!]Even George Fisher's doesn't seem to be as well stocked as usual which might be driven by the economic climate, tighter controls by new owner Tiso or a combination of both.

So, home tomorrow after a thoroughly enjoyable holiday which included a day at the Beatrix Potter International Study Conference where a friend, and Keswick resident, gave a paper as scholarly as it was amusing; friends from the US whom we didn't expect to see there surprised us; and Lynne met Patron of The Beatrix Potter Society, Patricia Routledge, for the first time. But it's the days on the fells that were special.

If there is any summer left in Scotland we might manage a trip to Rum with the tent, but it will have to be fitted in between sorting out the garden and cutting the hedges. Oh, and I'll have to sort out the photographs.

Sir Hugh - AlanR has enlightened you before I could finish this post.

AlanR - thanks for the above. Resale? You must be joking! This is for self- medication only.

Thanks to both of you for your regular comments and company on this trip. I'll be catching up with your blogs next week to find out what you have been up to.










Sent from my BlackBerry®

Friday 13 July - Final day out

And so, in the late afternoon and for the last time this holiday, we passed along the honeysuckle lanes in the Newlands Valley. From Little Town, we'd climbed Catbells - it's a ritual thing - and we were happy to stand on its bare, rocky top on a calm and quite beautiful morning.

We met a lady there who offered to photograph us together. "No thanks, we've got hundreds in various stages of ageing", replied Lynne. " Would you like us to take one of you?" She had lots too, taken over the years, and said she'd stick with the younger versions!" It transpired that she'd been at a conference in Kendal, had seen the good weather forecast, chucked the tent in the car and extended her stay to do some walking.

Of course Catbells alone would have been too brief a day, so we crossed to Maiden Moor, to the cairn on Blea Crag and then along the edge of Eel Crags. A large, noisy rabble of an 'organised' group had surrounded the High Spy cairn and showed no sign of moving while they variously screamed, made 'phone calls etc. It seems the ability to scream is a pre-requisite for 'group activities' these days.

Tomorrow we'll have a look round Keswick market where in the past we've found some old climbing books of interest.

Sir Hugh - I've never done the round from Buttermere, always from Newlands which I think is one of the loveliest of valleys and, as you say, the view from Dale Head is one of the best in the Lakes. I remember the post about your hair-raising dash back to Honister to collect your wallet.

AlanR - We've not done badly for tops on this trip despite the unpromising weather forecasts at the start of the holiday. Today after our walk we bought some Holts at Booths to smuggle over the border on Sunday!
Sent from my BlackBerry®