Good luck to all Challengers

Lynne and I would like to wish all Challengers a safe and enjoyable crossing no matter what the weather throws at you.

We are busy reading proofs of Lynne's new book and so it looks unlikely that we'll manage any backpacking in May. If we do though, we'll be sure to say 'hello' if we spot any of you.

Good luck to everyone.

Symington's Mug Shot

We discovered these last year in Morrisons and found they made quite a good lunch time snack when backpacking. A sachet weighs 68g and provides 301kcal. Empty into a mug, add boiling water and allow to stand for 5 mins (we find a bit longer is required) and we usually add a Butter Bud. We've only tried the Creamy Cheese one, but others are available.

Ticks

Meant to say on the previous post that the ticks appear to have survived the winter!

Variable snow cover

Just back from a trip to the Mamores and Loch Ailort area. Very variable snow cover as can be seen from these pics. I've put a few more up at http://afootinthehills.smugmug.com/Mamores-and-LochAilort  which might give Challengers planning to start at Loch Ailort and/or take in the Mamores, Ben Nevis, Aonachs etc, some idea of snow conditions. Still early days though.

Loch Beoraid

The Devil's Ridge to Sgurr a' Mhaim

Northern Corrie and summit ridge of Sgurr a' Mhaim

A June day on Ben More Coigach*

Beinn Ghobhlach

 As an antidote to the recent return of snow, sleet and strong winds I began looking at some photographs of summer days spent on the hills of the NW Highlands, and one set of images in particular transported me northwards: I was in Coigach on two magical June days.

Coigach means 'Fifth-part', the old Celtic custom being to divide land into five parts. So Coigach is the Coigach of Ross, the fifth part of the Cromarties and it is the land from Outer Loch Broom to the Sutherland border.

It had been several years since we had visited this area and now we were returning to meet friends based at Ardmair Bay, some three miles north of Ullapool. When we arrived, the bay was hidden by a rolling sea mist which occasionally shredded and eventually dispersed revealing blue skies and lovely Beinn Ghoblach.

As you descend the steep hill towards Ardmair the most striking sight is Ben More Coigach appearing as a wall of sandstone riven with gullies. Its westernmost top, Garbh Choireachan, drops abruptly to the coastal path which joins the Achiltibuie road near Culnacraig. Exposed to the Minch, the settlements along this coast are offered some welcome protection by the Summer Isles.

We had climbed Ben More Coigach many years previously but our two friends had not and we needed no persuading to accompany them on a second ascent. Parking at Blughasary we took the track to the bridge over the River Runie, quiet after six weeks of drought, and continued along the coastal path before breaking off up the slopes to the east of Beannan Beaga to Lochan Eadan dha Bheinn. Higher up we crossed great slabs dotted with spheres of rock, all Torridonian sandstone, before the final ascent to Speicein Coinnich.

The slopes to Speicein Coinnich

We were soon on this first top and the true character of the hill was revealed to our two companions (well four actually, including their dogs). On the summit of Ben More itself, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and discussed where to go next. Tom pondered taking the narrow ridge to Garbh Choireachan and returning to Blughasary by the previously mentioned (and exciting in places) coastal path. Lynne and I had already been along the ridge to Garbh Choireachan and were happy to visit again, but a return by the path on such a perfect day for the tops was easily rejected by all of us.


 Long ago the postman walked this arduous coastal route to deliver the mail and was paid 2/3d per journey. 'Taking the Rock' was how folk described the way via Ben More Coigach when coming to or from Ullapool.

The interesting ridge to Garbh Choireachan

In the end we decided to head for Sgurr an Fhidhleir, an impressive peak with 200m cliffs plunging to Lochan an Tuath.

Sgurr an Fhidhleir from Beinn an Eoin

 From the opposite shore of this lochan rises twin-topped Beinn an Eoin, 619m, which we all agreed looked worthy of attention.

Sgorr Tuath, Beinn an Eoin - familiar hills beyond

From Sgurr an Fhidhleir's airy summit the hills of the Inverpolly Nature Reserve, Assynt and Sutherland were a familiar and welcome sight. We lingered at the cairn, reluctant to leave, but eventually turned and retraced our route to Speicein Coinnich. Terns graced the head of Loch a' Chlaiginn as we passed on our way back. Curlews called on the moor. It had been a grand day shared with good friends and the comment made by Colin Kirkus to Alf Bridge on the summit of Sgurr Alasdair summed up our feelings:

"You know Alf, going to the right place at the right time, with the right people is all that really matters. What one does is purely incidental."

Today, Coigach had been the right place; Tom and Chris the right people.

*Note: I have not used the OS spelling of Ben (Mor) Coigach but have opted for the fully anglicized form rather the half-way house as it were. Both forms seem acceptable. Probably something like 'Beinn Mhòr ǹa Coigich' is the full Gaelic name, but I'm no expert. As Hamish Brown points out, the experts only disgagree anyway!

Zamberlan Ultralite GTX - First outing

There's not much to say really. We sploshed through water, mud and slush, over tussocky hillsides, old hard snow and descended steep slopes; even some pounding of tarmac was required. The boots didn't feel like 'old friends' of course, but they were comfortable and felt light on the feet and you can't ask more than that really. We'd want to have a few more days out in them before wearing on a long trip, but that's purely precautionary.

Dunmaglass and Moy Estates - Wind Turbines

I've just heard that Highland Council planning committee have voted by six to two in favour of the erection of 33 wind turbines on the Dunmaglass Estate. The Cairngorm National Park Authority and The John Muir Trust opposed the application and 1556 letters of objection were received and 912 for.

Meanwhile Carbon Free Developments want to establish 55 turbines on the Moy Estate and will likely submit an application later this year. The developer will probably offer free or discounted power as a community benefit.

I'm afraid there is simply no stopping the march of these ineffective monstrosities across Scotland.

Zamberlan Ultralite GTX

We have always been fans of Zamberlan boots but for the last few years have been unable to obtain them up here in Scotland, and they never seemed to be available in the Lakes either. So, when we noticed that Tiso had the new Ultralites (claimed weight, 960g in size 38) we had to go and have a look. Both of us ended up with a pair and will report after their first usage.

Based on past experience we expect them to be comfortable 'from the box' or at least to require very little breaking in.

A Walk in Flyrocs

Tuesday 23 March

I bought a pair of Inov8 Flyroc 345 GTX on Monday. It was a bit of a risk since I have a metatarso-phalangeal joint  injury on my left foot and using lightweight footwear on the hill usually means pain, whereas I have had none at all this winter using my Meindl Borneos.

Yesterday I decided to take them on their first walk, an easy one from Castlehill Reservoir through to Castle Campbell via the old drove road. The morning's early promise vanished in thick cloud cover and a spritely breeze, but larks were rising, curlews were crying and around Glen Quey reservoir black-headed gulls congregated noisily.

Snapped trees and branches reminded of the severe winter just gone (almost) and frogspawn that spring was here (almost).

We passed Maiden's Well which is on record as early as the mid-1800s. Legend has it that the spirit of a young woman haunts the well and could be called forth at night by potential suitors. However, those who dared to do so were discovered dead in the morning.  

Records show that she was a princess held captive in Castle Campbell, known at that time as Castle Gloom, because she had dared to fall in love with a man below her station; sometimes her gaolers would allow her to walk to the well to drink its waters.

Full marks for the walk and so far for the Flyrocs, but to find out if the joint injury would remain pain free in these lightweights, some ascent over rougher ground was called for. Whitewisp Hill rose conveniently above us and by the time we reached the cairn I was fairly sure they would be fine. The rest of the walk over Innerdownie and down its steep slopes back to the car seemed to confirm they had been a good buy. Only longer and rougher walks will truly tell.

Their first summit!

River Braan Hydro Scheme

As Chris Townsend has reported (see also Byeways for further comment), the above proposal has thankfully been rejected by the Scottish Executive. It would have been an appalling assault on a magnificent river and thanks must go to all who successfully opposed it.

 River Braan near Rumbling Bridge